Pointy not firing on rear.

Got it. Code is c00, no fault...

Also, the FI light is on, but as pointy owners will know, below the light it depicts "FI", an oil canister, and a thermometer (3 things pertaining to that light). Could this mean that it's not actually particularly down to the FI being faulty? There is a picture of an oil canister on the dash also.

BUT that's when I just turn the bike on. When I try to get it to turn over, "FI" is also shown on the dash

Originally Posted by allantheboss

BUT that's when I just turn the bike on. When I try to get it to turn over, "FI" is also shown on the dash

Whats the oil level like in the bike?

[Bibio]

might be a faf about but you could try swapping the coils about then testing the spark that way it will tell you if it's the coil or before the coil (wiring)

[Sid Squid]

When you say you checked the coil, what did you do? Tell us exactly what tests you did at what contacts/terminals and what the results were.
The ECU can show a code for fault at the LT coil, not the HT, so the HT can be OC which means no spark.
With the ignition switched on, and the stand, clutch and gear etc in place such that the engine should run, check that there is a battery voltage at the LT + on each coil.
Then check the wiring on the other LT wires from coil to ECU, if continuous and not resistive, then swap coils over to see if the fault shifts from one cylinder to the other.

[yorkie_chris]

So you tell us coil is fine, but it does not produce a spark?


(N.B can you actually swap coils without swapping the HT leads between them too, does a rear HT reach the front pot?)

Originally Posted by metalmonkey

Whats the oil level like in the bike?

Perfect, I topped it up first thing.

Originally Posted by Bibio

might be a faf about but you could try swapping the coils about then testing the spark that way it will tell you if it's the coil or before the coil (wiring)

See next response by me! Here we go!...

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

When you say you checked the coil, what did you do? Tell us exactly what tests you did at what contacts/terminals and what the results were.
The ECU can show a code for fault at the LT coil, not the HT, so the HT can be OC which means no spark.
With the ignition switched on, and the stand, clutch and gear etc in place such that the engine should run, check that there is a battery voltage at the LT + on each coil.
Then check the wiring on the other LT wires from coil to ECU, if continuous and not resistive, then swap coils over to see if the fault shifts from one cylinder to the other.

Righty ho: As a spark was being stopped somewhere along the line to the rear plug, and I knew both plugs worked, I unattached the rear one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV6...#ht_932wt_1037

..and plugged it in to the front's wires, on the other side of the engine, and it produced a spark, so that led me to conclude that the above (in the link) pictured bits of both cylinders and both spark plugs were all working. Could I be very wrong? What is "OC"?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

So you tell us coil is fine, but it does not produce a spark?


(N.B can you actually swap coils without swapping the HT leads between them too, does a rear HT reach the front pot?)

If I understand what you mean, they wouldn't have reached eachother's pots, but does my above answer to Supersquid answer your question too?



*IMPORTANT* Before any y'all reply- In dealer mode it originally said c00, but when I try to start the bike for a few seconds, it changes to c25 "Ignition signal #2 (rear cylinder) - Ignition coil, wiring/coupler connection, power supply from the battery"

So, where do I go from here? I am so grateful to all of you for helping me out. I will pass on your legacies to the next n00bs

[Bibio]

so you have established that your coil is fine so the only other thing it can be is between the ECU and the ignition. trace the wires back to see if there is a break/corroded connector somewhere.

according to the wiring diagram the colours of the wires you want to look at are.

black with white tracer (coil end) going into orange with white tracer = main power from ignition

solid black going to CDI.

[Sid Squid]

Well the coil obviously works if it sparks on the other cylinder's wiring.
You need to check for voltage at the LT on the duff cylinder, and for continuity from the ECU, (there is no CDI), to the LT on the same.
The C25 code means the ECU cannot 'see' the coil, which could mean the coil is duffed, (not in this case obviously), or there's no supply to the LT on that coil, or the wire/connectors between the coil and ECU is not connected, or the ECU itself has a problem.