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#11 | |
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Wet and icy roads, don't do icy roads, but no I use front and easy engine braking even in heavy rain, but I don't ride like an idiot in those conditions, which is called good planning by the way, if you're riding so fast in these conditions that you need heavy braking your not planning ahead or reading the conditions right. Why would I need the rear in traffic when you have the front brake. Is the rear a supersub for correct useage of the front? Last edited by speedyandypandy; 05-09-12 at 10:27 AM. |
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#12 | |
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Non ABS bike. When emergency stopping, you will slow down more quickly with "good" application of both. That means not locking the rear, but same goes for the front. This is a fact. When in the wet, gentle rear brake can assist in normal slowing/stops rather than heavier application of the front, to minimize front lock. Personal choice but works for me and I ride a lot all year round. Adjusting lines in a corner. Learning to use the rear "effectively" means not upsetting the balance by having to use the front. Yes it is correcting a small mistake but no ones perfect and its all a learning experience. You do not want to be grabbing front brake in a corner. Track (controversial topic). I use it! On a long straight I've learned to use it near the end of my braking to aid my last bits of slowing down, usually when easing up on the front. It works for me. Also used to adjust line in a corner. Best reason to learn to use the rear brake - Like any part of the bike, its there for a reason. If you don't know how to use it to the limit in most situations then you'll never get the maximum out of the bike. I'm not talking about speed here. I'm talking about using the bike effectively to become a better rider. |
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#13 | |
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You don't use the rear in traffic? Well you must have a very well set up bike. Front application at slow speed usually causes a bit of diving. If doing a lot of urban riding this becomes very noticeable and stessful on the arms (stop start, stop start). Why not use the rear? This is not "hard braking". We're talking more measured braking, front and rear even. But less front, less diving. You can't always use engine braking to be precise. The back is very effective I find for slow control and precision. I could ride much slower than walking pace on the back. In fact I make not having to stop completely when approaching traffic into a practice/game in using the back brake. I can't be the only one can I? |
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#14 |
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I don't get front diving with smooth braking, and no I normally don't do heavy traffic and filtering, I do long(ish >200km) trips and go-kart track(once a weekish), go to a big track 1-2 a year, I live outside any mayor city and when I go out for a small steam outlet I'm already in the countryside. This is fun http://youtu.be/c551D4lqF2M
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#15 |
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Ok stop willy waving and sort out the op issue .
You two see me after school ![]()
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#16 |
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another one for using the back brake and i use it a lot and mostly in conjunction with the front.
as long as you don't pull the clutch in your fine. only time i use my back without the clutch is coming to a stop at under 10mph such as traffic lights. it's when people use the back brake hard and pull the clutch in is when problems start. during my lessons i was asked how i was able to stop the bike so quick so i told them and they told me to stop it to which i replied 'feck off'. even my examiner was impressed when i done my emergency stop. driving schools teach people to pass a test not ride a bike and most people take what they have been taught by the school as the gospel so continue to do what they were taught. |
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#17 |
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Back to the OP.
I can't think of a reason you couldn't have HH in the rear, and GG in the front if that's what gets you the feel you like. The logic may be that you'd get more friction from the rear than you'd expect compared to the front, but on a bike you adjust both independently anyway. In a car, I can see this making the brake bias a bit odd. I'd say, assuming you've actually bedded the GG pads in properly (a number of firm braking actions from high-ish speed without overheating anything over a fair number of miles) by all means put in the HHs and see how they feel. On the curvy, the caliper is, if anything more powerful than required and mine gets through a selection of EBC green and Armstrong or similar GG pads, based purely on what's cheaply and readily available, regardless of whats in the front. Jambo
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Modern motorcycles are bloody brilliant, enjoy it while we can ![]() Last edited by jambo; 05-09-12 at 12:58 PM. |
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#18 |
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#19 |
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Ok, I'll get serious.
Did you wash the pads and discs before installing new pads? Brake cleaner might be strong enough, but some nasty CRC Quick Clean will do the trick. Car mechanics thought me that one while working in the same workshop just not with cars. And find a nice straight with close to no traffic where you can highspeed brake with the rear safely, clean out all the ventholes in the discs, sometime pad material shouldn't mix with other pad materials(or so I've been told by car mechs). Obvious the last question is did you grease up the old pots or service them? |
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#20 |
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Apologies y'all no more thread spamming. Hope OP gets it sorted ... so sort him out you lot?!
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