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#11 | |
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Allow a minimum of £200 for the suspension and around the same for bodywork A race belly pan of around 6l is needed on a SV (oil and coolant system) and that is a ACU requirement and can't be avoided. Also spend £40 on a lockwire kit and some good fine metal or HSS drill bits
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi |
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#12 | |
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#13 | |
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Ask Berlin that question ![]() http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=153136
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi |
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#14 |
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Andrewsmith cheers for the advice. Where is the best place to get a race belly pan? That ACU handbook is a long read. Im deciding between 2 race fairings at the mo.
Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 |
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#15 |
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi |
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#16 | |
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#17 |
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flymo how long did it take you to build your bike?
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#18 |
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I think I bought it in the January and my first race that season was towards the end of March.
It really depends on how much work you do, I bought mine as a naked road bike that wasnt running. It needed a full strip and service to get it top notch. If you are starting from something altogether more road worthy then it may not take so long. Start by making a list of the things that you MUST do to race it, there will be plenty of additional things that you might like to do but they are extras. If you can find a race ready bike it will save you plenty of work but that totally depends on your budget. Alternatively, if you want to pay me to race prep a bike for you I'm up for it. |
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#19 |
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so not to long considering the work you had to put in to getting it up and running.
Well at the mo this where i am i got a k7, fully faired, braided hoses, hyperpro front springs, nitron rear shock and a scorpion end can. This is my road bike but after weighing up my 2 options after i was told i would get bugger all for the pointy as she stands at 30k on the clock i think this is my best option. Thanks for the offer tho flymo i will keep that in mind |
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#20 |
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just remember there are plenty of things that you 'could' do but really dont need to. Stick to the essentials to get started.
Catch tray for fluids, a race fairing normally has this built in. Rear sprocket guard (sometimes called a shark fin) needs to be fitted. Braided hoses (done), lockwire the oil filler cap, replace the coolant with clean water (watch out for freezing during winter, I used to leave it filled with coolant until just before the season start then switch to water). Remove any road lighting or glass parts. The remainder is just about road worthiness, everything working and in good order. Somewhere to fit your race numbers and you're good to go. Everything else is performance upgrades. |
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