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#11 | |
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Hard as it is to believe, people round off the heads of caliper mount bolts and strip the threads out of the calipers- and that's just from removing and replacing the calipers to change the front tire... The OP sounds like he's not likely to do it on his own, so he isn't likely to ruin anything, but neither should he run off to a shop and ask them to rebuild his calipers, simply because they are "old". Especially if his problem is with the brake lever as sounds likely. Last edited by wideguy; 04-12-13 at 01:39 AM. |
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#12 |
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My thoughts exactly mate. No damage at to my calipers after i rebuilt them, and im a plumber haha.
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#13 | |
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![]() Id say inspect the master cylinder first. I would also suspect the pistons in the calipers are not in the best condition, same with the seals. Not many bikes have their calipers cleaned out properly when people change brake pads.. |
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#14 |
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I guess it comes down to whether your a practical person or not. Its not exactly rocket science though is it, is what i was trying to get at haha.
Defo worth looking into a guide of how to do it, before running off anywhere i think. Then make a decision off that. I only said cos theyre old, as mine were full of crud and crap + seals were knackered. |
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#15 |
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After reading this the idea of getting a new M/C has gone out the window. I'll just get the brakes fixed (hopefully back to working order)
Bikes in garage tomorrow for heated grips, scottoiler and crash bungs so popped in there today and mentioned the brakes and they said they'd have a look at them, if it's something little they'll just do it for the sake of me not crashing, if it's anything major they'll ring me. I dare not doing anything myself because I always think I'd ruin it, don't get my wrong I'd love to be able to do loads of bike related things myself I just don't trust myself. Nor do I have an extensive range of tools/knowledge or space in which to do stuff. Chris |
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#16 |
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Perhaps a wise move mate. Better that than making a fluff up.
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#17 | |
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#18 |
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Hiya, just spotted this thread. I race a 600 srad. I agree with sv650racer, probable main fault is in mc. When I first got my srad brakes were ok one minute then coming to lever next. Rebuilt calipers, fitted hel hoses, putoline 5.1 fluid and SBS race sintered pads. On first outing(trackday at cadwell) felt great then half way through session lever starts coming to bar again! Tried bleeding again, seemed fine. Kept lever pulled in with elastic band between sessions to help get micro bubbles out but was same all day. Few laps fine then scary. Got a kit for mc and when i stripped it there was a tiny ridge down the bore which I wasn't happy about so I got another which was ok and put kit in that. They were really good after that. I've since fitted a reconditioned 750 srad mc, the piston is bigger, they are cheap as chips(thread is also different so get the banjo aswell if you ever do it) which equates to less lever travel. Slight drop in actual stopping power but they are still good enough to lift back wheel with two fingers. Have stuck with SBS pads but they may not last that well commuting so I'd probably get some ebc hh pads(which is what I have in rear but I don't use it!)
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#19 | |
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#20 |
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Looks like getting a new M/C is back on the table now then
Garage looked at the brakes and cleaned up the lever and possibly the calipers because they brakes are useable now and don't scare me so think it was a just a case of cleaning the crap out. Garage said they're binding slightly and if I wanted to fix that then get new seals etc |
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