SV won't start - wiring fault? Chelmsford

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Bike has been standing for a couple of months but was a daily runner until it stopped starting on the button.

Was a daly runner before it stopped starting in the button but I still think checking the stand switch, and indeed the frame earth if I can find it!, is a good thing.

Thanks

[Grant66]

Check the starter switch, mine just needed a clean.
There was a thread about a few months ago (another curvy) with the same problem. Have a search.

[NTECUK]

How far are you willing to travel

[Sid Squid]

Start with this:

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Just to clarify; everything else electrical works, yes? If no, what else doesn't work?
Does the solenoid 'click' when you press the starter button?

If no, then the first check to make is whether the solenoid is being powered or not, check there's suitable voltage on the yellow/green wire in the four pin plug on the solenoid when the starter button is pressed, (and all the other conditions for starting are met - neutral, sidestand etc). You'll need to back-probe the connection as if you remove the connector block the entire bike's electrics will be dead. If there is voltage there the solenoid isn't functioning, if there isn't see below.

Can you bump start the bike? If yes, then the circuit up to the right switchgear is OK, as the supply goes to the stop/run switch and the output of that to both the ignition system and to the starter button. If it had failed before there it wouldn't run with a bump.

The circuit is: stop switch - orange/white wire - starter button - yellow/green wire - right switchgear connector block - yellow/black wire - left switchgear connector block - black/yellow wire - clutch switch - black yellow wire - left switchgear connector block - yellow/green wire - solenoid connector block.

Then:

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

This list relies on there being no other electrical problems - clearly if all the electrics are dead it would be a waste of time investigating the starter system as something more fundamental is faulty, which obviously will cause the starter not to turn but not because there's a problem with the starter.
This is a complete listing of all tests on the solenoid supply, clearly one may dispense with some of them if tests made further along the circuit have already been made and proven good, but for clarity they have all been added to this list.

All tests done with ignition on, in neutral, clutch pulled. All connectors assembled and intact unless stated.

1. Remove the starter cutout relay, is the orange/white wire connector live?
Yes; go to 2.
No; fault lies in fuse 3 and/or wiring from there to relay base.

2. Refit relay, backprobe orange/black wire on relay base, live?
Yes; go to 3
No; fault in relay and/or connections.

3. Remove the right switchgear connector, is the orange/black wire on the loom side live?
Yes; go to 4.
No; orange/black wire in loom from relay to right switchgear connector broken. See switchgear tests below.


All further tests require the starter button to be pressed when testing.


4. Reconnect right switchgear, backprobe yellow/black wire on loom side of connector, live?
Yes; go to 5.
No; fault is inside switchgear, connector or wiring from connector to switchgear. See switchgear tests below.

5. At left switchgear connector is the yellow/black wire live?
Yes; go to 6.
No; yellow/black wire between left and right switchgear connectors on loom broken.

6. At clutch switch test for voltage at both wires, which are the same colour, one should be live.
Yes; go to 7.
No; left switchgear connector/wiring broken.

7. At left switchgear connector loom side backprobe yellow/green wire, live?
Yes; Go to 8.
No; left switchgear connector/wiring broken.

8. At solenoid backprobe yellow/green wire, live?
Yes; go to 9.
No; yellow/green wire/connectors from left switchgear to solenoid connector broken.

9. Check continuity from black/white wire on solenoid connector to battery negative.
Yes; faulty solenoid.
No; broken black/white wire.


Switchgear tests:

Remove right switchgear connector, remove right switchgear. Identify stop/run switch and starter button connections in switchgear.

1. Check for continuity between switchgear connector orange/black wire and same on stop/run switch.
Yes; go to 2.
No; orange/black wire and/or connectors broken.

2. With stop/run switch at 'run', check for continuity at switch connections - orange/black connection to orange/white connection.
Yes; go to 3.
No; stop/run switch faulty.

3. Check for continuity between orange/white wire on stop/run switch and same on starter button.
Yes; go to 4.
No; orange/white wire and/or connections broken.

4. With starter button pressed check for continuity at switch connections - orange/white connection to yellow/green connection.
Yes; go to 5.
No; starter button faulty.

5. Check for continuity between yellow/green wire on starter button and same at switchgear connector.
Yes; good!
No; yellow/green wire and/or connections broken.

HTH

[Heorot]

I had this last year. The problem was the microswitch under the clutch lever had blown so when the clutch was held in, the starter motor was disabled. A new microswitch solved the problem. Sourced from C J Ball in Norwich for around £15.00.

Hi NTECUK. Bike won't start at th moment so I'm in Chelmsford. Whereabouts are you?

Hi Heorot, thanks for that. I took the clutch switch out of the circuit a while back so it's disabled anyway. I could look at the stand switch though.

Hi Sid Squid

Thanks for all your comments, I'll work through them, you're clearly very knowledgable and experienced!

The bike will bump start, I can also spin up the starter motor to start the bike by connecting my car battery to the starter motor terminals.

I don't think I'm hearing a click from the starter relay though. I've also noticed that the connector into the top of the starter relay has at some point been repaired. The wires are all there and it has obviously run for years without the connector itself with the wires run into spades connecting to the top of the starter relay connector. I'm guessing it's a good place to start.

It's interesting that if the bike will bump and run then the right hand side switchgear if fine. This is very very helpful.

So all in all all electrics seem fine, I'm just not getting a start click when trying to start the bike in the button. I've replaced the relay, I guess I need to hunt around a bit.

Cheers

[NTECUK]

If you get stuck I'm near freeport ish way.
So not too far.
The start relays in the frame
So check it's connections.