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#11 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 219
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Around the mid 1990's I went from being sceptical about the Scottoiler to being a firm convert. I had resisted due the initial outlay and the thought that I could keep the drive sweet with a small bottle of EP90 applied at regular intervals. I eventually took the plunge after a very wet trip when I just could not keep the chain lubed enough. The great thing about an oiler which feeds the chain as you ride is the improved constant lubrication. This just cannot be replicated by applying oils and sprays when static as it is flung off as soon as you move. Anything thick enough to stay on the chain is too thick to lube properly and becomes a grinding paste.
Have had good results with a cheaper oiler too but the Scottoiler is much more convenient for me. I have had the touring reservoir which is really convenient but doesn't fit the SV. Also had and discarded the lube tube and the dual feed injector. It works best for me to keep it simple with the single injector and carrying some spare oil on a longer multi day trip to top up the standard RMV. Have not tried the electronic version. I run the oiler at a very slow drip rate and it can go over 2k without a top up if it is mainly dry weather. Definitely good kit. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Posts: 820
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I have a scotoiler on my 2008 SV that I bought five years ago. Still on the original chain and sprockets. The wife doesn't do maintenance, hence her 2011 bike has already had chain and sprockets done. It has a scotoiler fitted and will hopefully last a lot longer.
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#13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kington Herefordshire
Posts: 916
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Yeah I've read that the dual feed part is unnecessary and difficult to keep both outlets feeding equally. Also it looks a bit messy compared to the standard.
Do you still routinely degrease and clean the chain as you would with conventional oiling? |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Posts: 820
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I have done in the past. Used SDOC100 which is really good stuff.
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 219
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I have found that the SV is prone to getting oil on the rear tyre so am careful to keep the flow rate to a minimum and to not over oil the chain by hand after giving it a clean. Other bikes I have had are better at shedding the oil from the chain without it getting on the tyre. Just need to be aware of that tendency. Suspect it is due to the way the air flows around the rear of the bike. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 2,691
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Scottoiler - a definite yes. V-System for ease of setup. Chain stays lubed in all conditions. Used them since I discovered them at the end of the 80s and I'd never go back to any other system.
Linklyfe - mmm, rose tinted specs there I think. I used to use it through the 70s and early 80s and most of it ended up on the back wheel and tyre...and the mudguard....and the rear footpegs....and the back numberplate... And by the time I'd ridden 50 miles the chain was as dry as a bone again. |
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#17 |
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Silly question about Scottoilers - how do you know if you've got it set to the correct amount of lubrication? I've got the dual oiler system fitted to mine (dual was a freebie offer at the time) so do I need to run it slightly less than you would with the single outlet?
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#18 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Posts: 820
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The instructions tell you how many drops a minute to set it at
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#19 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 219
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I think the drips per minute way of setting the flow a bit of a faff. This is especially true with the dual feed. I start with a low setting, maybe level 2 on the adjuster ring and work from there. If the chain looks dry after a run I turn the flow up slightly and if it is over oiling (ie oil is getting onto the face of the rear tyre) I turn it down. This is a continual process as flow rate is dependant on ambient temperature. I have found that two drops per minute is too much and have given up trying to count the drips.
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3,614
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When you have oil on the chain and not on the back wheel. I tend to turn mine up until I can see flecks of oil appearing on the wheel and then turn it down slightly and that's normally about right. I also set it so that the chain doesnt look dry. Its trial and error really and personally I've never relied on the numbers on the dial to give an accurate "drops per minute setting" If I know I am going to be riding in adverse conditions / rain / or during winter. I would turn it up a little more so that more oil is going onto the chain.
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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