Weight - Page 2 - SV650.org

16-01-05, 08:48 PM

Bl***dy Hell that is steep!

That'll be fun in the snow n ice

I'd ride up, as there's no way I'd push the bike up that.

16-01-05, 08:49 PM

shouldn't be a problem riding up that..... except if icy.....

wouldn't dare push it up tho

fizzwheel · 16-01-05, 09:37 PM

I'd ride up that, my driveway is pretty steep, I can just about push my bike up it, but I'm knackered when I get to the top, I always forget and park to close to the garage door so I have to get through a tiny gap to get in the garage as well

Like the other said, just cover the back brake and take it steady, you'll be fine

16-01-05, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpaton2004

Hi,
Has anyone weighed their SV (650) - how close is it to the claimed weight of 162 (dry) kilograms?

I was looking at the this BMW site on details of the k1200s
http://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/k1200s...200s_specs.pdf

When I noticed this section on weight :-

DIN unladen weight ( lbs ) 545 lbs
Dry weight ( lbs ) BMW Standard 499 lbs
(with dry battery)
Dry weight (lbs) Japan Standard 488 lbs
(without battery)

There's 57 lbs difference between DIN and Japan standard so an on the road SV will weigh quite a bit more than 162kg.
Not sure about the DIN standard but I think it includes petrol.

carelesschucca · 16-01-05, 09:51 PM

I can't believe your trying to push the bike up that... the engine is there to do the pushing...

If you get up enough speed you won't even have to open the gate either

16-01-05, 10:19 PM

Thanks for all the advice!

At the moment I have a Bandit 6 (faired) which weighs 210 kg dry, so about 230+ with petrol/oil, etc! - i have managed to get it up that drive and it was like hell. I currently park in my mate's garage

but unfortunately he's having it renovated so I'll have to move the bike to mine - this is one of the biggest reasons for moving to an SV because it's fifty KG lighter than the Bandit which should mean it's a bit easier to maneuvre!

I definitely agree with riding up,I think if I push it up and it falls away from me then that'll be my no-claims bonus going up in flames. One further question, do you think Is there enough width on that path to comfortably get up with both legs down with an SV? I thought about starting the run about 3/4 the width of the path across giving me some clearance from the wall!!

I'm going to re-tarmac it as well with some of that nice anti-slip playground stuff which should help somewhat.

Cheers
Martin

ophic · 16-01-05, 11:45 PM

I had my bike collected by the dealers for repairs after a minor off. They loaded it into a transit van - which involved riding up a metal gangplank into the van which was well under a foot wide and very steep - also nothing but thin air on either side should things go wrong, and very little braking distance - only the length of the van. The plank did have small lips on either side, but it was still very scary to watch. They went in fast, straight and braked very hard.

I think i agree with you in keeping away from the wall as much as possible, but also keeping your weight to the wall side so if you have to stop, you're not trying to put your foot on the steps. That would indicate going up on the left hand side if you want to cover your rear brake, although keeping two fingers over the front brake would probably do the job. If its icy, er... well... good luck :P

17-01-05, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carelesschucca

If you get up enough speed you won't even have to open the gate either

17-01-05, 02:44 PM

Do you ride down "front first" Or roll it down backwards using the front brake and clutch (in gear)?

17-01-05, 03:00 PM

I'd ride up it, I'd drop it or something if pushed. You apear to have a large area at the top to stop in so thats good.

Or you could move somewhere flatter...

16-01-05, 09:37 PM	#13
fizzwheel Super Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Somerset Posts: 3,614	I'd ride up that, my driveway is pretty steep, I can just about push my bike up it, but I'm knackered when I get to the top, I always forget and park to close to the garage door so I have to get through a tiny gap to get in the garage as well Like the other said, just cover the back brake and take it steady, you'll be fine __________________ Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. K5 GSXR 750 Anniversary Edition

16-01-05, 09:51 PM	#15
carelesschucca Member Mega Poster Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kilsyth - Bonnie Scotland Posts: 2,727	I can't believe your trying to push the bike up that... the engine is there to do the pushing... If you get up enough speed you won't even have to open the gate either __________________ Innuendo - it's great when you get it. sv650s (gone) gsx-r600 (gone) Street R675 (now living in Inbhir Nis )

16-01-05, 10:19 PM	#16
mpaton2004 Guest Posts: n/a	thanks Thanks for all the advice! At the moment I have a Bandit 6 (faired) which weighs 210 kg dry, so about 230+ with petrol/oil, etc! - i have managed to get it up that drive and it was like hell. I currently park in my mate's garage but unfortunately he's having it renovated so I'll have to move the bike to mine - this is one of the biggest reasons for moving to an SV because it's fifty KG lighter than the Bandit which should mean it's a bit easier to maneuvre! I definitely agree with riding up,I think if I push it up and it falls away from me then that'll be my no-claims bonus going up in flames. One further question, do you think Is there enough width on that path to comfortably get up with both legs down with an SV? I thought about starting the run about 3/4 the width of the path across giving me some clearance from the wall!! I'm going to re-tarmac it as well with some of that nice anti-slip playground stuff which should help somewhat. Cheers Martin

16-01-05, 11:45 PM	#17
ophic Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Whyteleafe Posts: 3,395	I had my bike collected by the dealers for repairs after a minor off. They loaded it into a transit van - which involved riding up a metal gangplank into the van which was well under a foot wide and very steep - also nothing but thin air on either side should things go wrong, and very little braking distance - only the length of the van. The plank did have small lips on either side, but it was still very scary to watch. They went in fast, straight and braked very hard. I think i agree with you in keeping away from the wall as much as possible, but also keeping your weight to the wall side so if you have to stop, you're not trying to put your foot on the steps. That would indicate going up on the left hand side if you want to cover your rear brake, although keeping two fingers over the front brake would probably do the job. If its icy, er... well... good luck :P __________________ Silver SV650SK3, Fuel exhaust

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16-01-05, 08:48 PM	#11
The Mass Guest Posts: n/a	Bl***dy Hell that is steep! That'll be fun in the snow n ice I'd ride up, as there's no way I'd push the bike up that.

16-01-05, 08:49 PM	#12
Iansv Guest Posts: n/a	shouldn't be a problem riding up that..... except if icy..... wouldn't dare push it up tho

17-01-05, 02:44 PM	#19
Ceri JC Guest Posts: n/a	Do you ride down "front first" Or roll it down backwards using the front brake and clutch (in gear)?

17-01-05, 03:00 PM	#20
Grinch Guest Posts: n/a	I'd ride up it, I'd drop it or something if pushed. You apear to have a large area at the top to stop in so thats good. Or you could move somewhere flatter...