oxford heated grips fitting? - Page 2 - SV650.org

Big Bad Al · 15-02-05, 07:19 PM

i had to trim the ridges and the bevel nearest the cable end otherwise the oxford grip wouldnt push on far enough and the bar end weight would stop the grip from turning - if you get what i mean...

15-02-05, 07:22 PM

doin great cloggsy. Got me a luvly ZX6R to play with now.

15-02-05, 07:23 PM

Thanks for everyones help its much appreciated!!

15-02-05, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oxprod

Got me a luvly ZX6R to play with now.

D'Oh...

Turn-coat...

Need to change ones profile then

15-02-05, 07:27 PM

still got the SV in the garage. Only done 1,200 miles ifa nyone wants to make an offer

northwind · 15-02-05, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oxprod

first time i've heard someone wanting get rid of heat adjustment!

Problem doing that is you'll be forced to keep max temperature all the time, and the new ones get bloody hot to get over the aluminium bar thing. Anyway it can be done by simply swapping the heat controller for the old style switch. Same connectors.

I'd be happy enough with on/off, they're always on full anyway, 8am commutes all through the winter... I'd trade the adjustability for smaller switchgear, definately. Could I get the same result with a 2-pole on-off, just replace the box with the switch, or is there more to it?

Thanks for the help (again!)

16-02-05, 11:23 AM

no physical reason why you couldnt wire in your own switch, but it would invalidate any warranty on the grips and scare the hell out of our customer services department

17-02-05, 10:22 AM

Go to http://www.foc-u.co.uk/reviews/chrioxford.htm for more info.

I've just bought some and would like know where to connect the positve so they turn off with the ignition.

Can anybody help.

Blue SV650s K2

19-02-05, 06:16 PM

Well I fitted mine.
If I were to advise anyone doing the same it would be, not to be in a hurry.
The clutch side was easy as it was just a matter of cutting off a perfectly good grip, cleaning the old glue off the bar and positioning the new grip so the clutch lever didn't interfere with the grip cable. I marked the grip and switch housing with a marker pen to make it easier to line it up after putting the glue on.
Be carefull when fitting the twistgrip. I cut off the the ridges and bevel down to the round but then found the heated grip easily slid on with no interference fit at all. If I was doing it again I would take them down evenly and keep trying the grip until a good close fit was obtained. After I glued it I clamped the grip down with a couple of jubilee clips that I had in the draw.
I found it took a while to position the grip as the cable of course turns with the grip, so it was a matter of trying different positions until I was happy the cable wasn't going to rub against the faring and the frame. Not wanting to damage the paintwork or the cables. I used a few cable ties trying various cable routes, cutting them off and trying other routes until I was satisfied, so make sure you have a few ties handy.
The rest was simple enough except to say if you are sticking the contol on the yoke or other flat surface you have only one chance so get it right. It stick like s**t to a blanket.
I tried them today (a bloody cold Saturday) and they were good but the finger tips still got cold and I thought a pair of handlebar shrouds as well would keep some of the heat in creating a small oven each side for your hands. I suppose I should have turned them off for a time to feel the difference but I was enjoying the luxury of part warm hands for a change. Oh, the grips are slightly larger but I know I will get used to that after a while.

28-02-05, 12:46 PM

1. can anyone with a K3 advise where to connect the live wire to? i (obviously) would not want it to be drawing power with the ignition off.

2. in DIY skills terms i rate myself as a keen amateur - is this a job for the professionals? i looked at the http://www.foc-u.co.uk/reviews/chrioxford.htm and that makes it sound easy enough but the potential to screw up is, well, huuuuuuge.

Will.

15-02-05, 07:19 PM	#11
Big Bad Al Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: West London Posts: 188	i had to trim the ridges and the bevel nearest the cable end otherwise the oxford grip wouldnt push on far enough and the bar end weight would stop the grip from turning - if you get what i mean... __________________ SFV650 in black with Evotech tailtidy, R&G Aeros and Heated Grips, Puig fly screen, Pipe Werx GP style race exhaust. Whoop! Previously.... Black SVS - DHM's Heated Grips Airblade Iridium Double Bubble Screen Beowulf end can and Evotech tailtidy. 3/7/2004 - 26/6/2015.

17-02-05, 10:22 AM	#18
drumwrecker Guest Posts: n/a	Oxford Hot Grips Go to http://www.foc-u.co.uk/reviews/chrioxford.htm for more info. I've just bought some and would like know where to connect the positve so they turn off with the ignition. Can anybody help. Blue SV650s K2

19-02-05, 06:16 PM	#19
drumwrecker Guest Posts: n/a	Heated grips Well I fitted mine. If I were to advise anyone doing the same it would be, not to be in a hurry. The clutch side was easy as it was just a matter of cutting off a perfectly good grip, cleaning the old glue off the bar and positioning the new grip so the clutch lever didn't interfere with the grip cable. I marked the grip and switch housing with a marker pen to make it easier to line it up after putting the glue on. Be carefull when fitting the twistgrip. I cut off the the ridges and bevel down to the round but then found the heated grip easily slid on with no interference fit at all. If I was doing it again I would take them down evenly and keep trying the grip until a good close fit was obtained. After I glued it I clamped the grip down with a couple of jubilee clips that I had in the draw. I found it took a while to position the grip as the cable of course turns with the grip, so it was a matter of trying different positions until I was happy the cable wasn't going to rub against the faring and the frame. Not wanting to damage the paintwork or the cables. I used a few cable ties trying various cable routes, cutting them off and trying other routes until I was satisfied, so make sure you have a few ties handy. The rest was simple enough except to say if you are sticking the contol on the yoke or other flat surface you have only one chance so get it right. It stick like s**t to a blanket. I tried them today (a bloody cold Saturday) and they were good but the finger tips still got cold and I thought a pair of handlebar shrouds as well would keep some of the heat in creating a small oven each side for your hands. I suppose I should have turned them off for a time to feel the difference but I was enjoying the luxury of part warm hands for a change. Oh, the grips are slightly larger but I know I will get used to that after a while.

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15-02-05, 07:22 PM	#12
Oxprod Guest Posts: n/a	doin great cloggsy. Got me a luvly ZX6R to play with now.

15-02-05, 07:23 PM	#13
csimmo Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks for everyones help its much appreciated!!

15-02-05, 07:27 PM	#15
Oxprod Guest Posts: n/a	still got the SV in the garage. Only done 1,200 miles ifa nyone wants to make an offer

16-02-05, 11:23 AM	#17
Oxprod Guest Posts: n/a	no physical reason why you couldnt wire in your own switch, but it would invalidate any warranty on the grips and scare the hell out of our customer services department

28-02-05, 12:46 PM	#20
will Guest Posts: n/a	1. can anyone with a K3 advise where to connect the live wire to? i (obviously) would not want it to be drawing power with the ignition off. 2. in DIY skills terms i rate myself as a keen amateur - is this a job for the professionals? i looked at the http://www.foc-u.co.uk/reviews/chrioxford.htm and that makes it sound easy enough but the potential to screw up is, well, huuuuuuge. Will.