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#11 | |
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Got a bit carried away with mine, was all going well, working on it being 160-165kg Until I weighed it the other night It was 145kg ![]() ![]() Admittedly it had no pistons or cams, but the exhaust, coolant and extra 5l of water were put on it. I think it might end up with a big chunk of steel bolted underneath or std cams, ive stopped spending money on it now, but its still a pile of bits, hope its ready for the first one, allbeit multicoloured, If not i'll be hiring/blagging a bike for snett. |
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#12 | |
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Just looking at getting it upto a safe 80bhp not much more as dont want to have a bike that needs anymore attention than a minitwin. I am sure more things might get done throughout the year dependant on the bank balance ![]() You up for comming to Croix and entering the Forza's..me and Will are thinking about it! ![]() |
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#13 |
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Okay checked out the dyno sheets:
stock/JHS: EEC PDQ: EEC Horespower cams/Chris Gunster: not sure will find out some time. The torque figures for the two non-stock runs are almost identical at the bottom end/lower midrange, and my trouser dyno tells me there's no change there. Will be interested to see the results from SVracer using the same dyno. I was pretty chuffed it was going quicker so thought you'd like to see, and the fuelling doesn't really need adjusting, I know using different dynos isn't ideal for comparison but how big a difference can there be in measuring the same thing? |
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#14 |
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Good work. It's a great mod isn't it?
We had a bit of a southern Australia SV get-together recently & I really noticed (so did everyone else) the lovely over-run sounds from my bike compared to others. ![]() |
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#15 |
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I did the JHS stage 2 cam/dynojet/advance key/M4 pipe thing on my 02 race bike
on the dyno Shes pulling a reliable 80hp (dynojet dyno readings) Under our race rules Im NOT allowed to modify my airbox or fit an aftermarket filter. Under racing conditions its very much a case of --the same but more -the curves havent changed but theyre just higher She's overfueling a bit at the bottom end--but what the hey-She spends no time down there |
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#16 |
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instead of making another new thread about it, I will continue here with my questions...
![]() I just read about the cam-swap (K3-intake into curvey-intake end intake to exhaust) and I am already very interested. ![]() but, some questions. I've read that the swap isn't very hard to do. I recently checked the clearence of the valves myself, so that I can do. the only thing is how do you know you've put the cams in the right place/angle..... because I don't want to brake my valves ![]() I will also install the ingition advancer key at the same time. I have already a K&N + modified air-box (extra holes) + dyn-jet stage II + open exhaust. I will propably need to tune my carbes (I don't know much about those animals), right? but because I don't know much about it, I will let this done by my local tuner, who has a machine to measure the bhp's (tell me the name pls ![]() ![]() about the install for the ignition key advancer: can someone post me a pic about the tool I have to use to remove the fly-wheel, because I have NO clue what it looks like... and last but not least, where can I buy the intake cams of a K3> model? I read somewhere that I can buy them in America for $200, or does someone know a place in Europe for more or less the same price? maybe on ebay, but didn't find nothing today. gracias ![]() |
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#17 |
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You can buy them from any Suzuki dealer, it comes to about £130UK. The cams have timing marks on the ends, so fitting the intake cams are fairly simple. When you put the old intake on the exuahst side, your markings won't line up but you can work out how they should be by simple comparison to the old exhaust cams- what you're basically doing here is making sure the lobe is in teh same place. You turn the engine over by hand (with a wrench on the end of the crank) before you fire it to make sure nothing's clashing.
Worth mentioning, maybe, that I have a spare set of carbed model intakes still, which would be cheaper than K3 intakes, but less godo to be fair. The rotor puller is more or less a big hardened bolt... Nothing too clever. You drilled holes in your airbox?
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#18 | |
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![]() ![]() As for the K3> cams, if anyones got a set let me know ![]() I've put a set of intake cams on the exhust side and the over run noise is worth doing it, i think it give more power at the top of the rev range but i have no dyno charts to prove, just that i keep running in to the rev limiter ![]() |
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#19 | |||
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ok, that was a stupid question, about the fitting of the cams, I should have touhgt about it... but thanks anyway
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