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Old 16-07-06, 07:56 PM   #11
northwind
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Don't get the K&N oil filter... Well, depends. They're allegedly a little better than OEM, whether that's worth it or not I doubt, but I got mine entirely for bling purposes And then, all the paint fell off and it went rusty after 2000 miles. It's still fine as a filter but cosmetically it's horrible.
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Old 16-07-06, 08:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northwind
Don't get the K&N oil filter... Well, depends. They're allegedly a little better than OEM, whether that's worth it or not I doubt, but I got mine entirely for bling purposes And then, all the paint fell off and it went rusty after 2000 miles. It's still fine as a filter but cosmetically it's horrible.
Thinking about it, the paint has started flaking of mine arounf the nut.
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Old 16-07-06, 10:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BIKER-DENE
thanks guys

when i said cleaning the filter i ment the air filter and replace the oil filter lol

and its cheap oil just found out its mineral based ooops lol

got some propper bike oil here now tho.


bike is 6 eyars old year 2000

and has done 36 thousand miles

perfect service history loads of paper work .

i get it serviced every 12k miles.



and iv just remove the air filter and found loads of oil in the bottom of it and the filter is brown :S :S
The handbook says to service every 3500 miles. You've not been running it on mineral oil for 12000 miles between oil changes, have you?
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Old 16-07-06, 10:47 PM   #14
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no iv not but...


why would that be bad? lol

dont know much about oils and stuff lol
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Old 17-07-06, 01:24 PM   #15
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Oil pressure is always higher when the engine is cold, if the oil has been overfilled, pressure is too high and it can force its way past the rings.
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Old 17-07-06, 01:54 PM   #16
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My bet would be that an excessive ammount of oil is making it up the crank case breather hoses into the air box, down past the carbs / injector bodies and into the intakes on the engine, where it's then sitting till burned off at the start of the engine.

Check the oil level with the bike on a level surface held vertically and the oil level should appear between upper and lower levels.

If the oild has done more than 4000 miles change it as soon as possible, oil degrades over time, the more expensive stuff less so, so a fully synthetic oil at 4,000 miles may still be lubricating as well as a mineral oil at 2000 miles (This is purely subjective and numbers are pulled from the air to make a point). None the less the engine is designed to have an oil change every 3,500 miles. Given that 4 Litres of Semi Synth sets you back about £20 - £25 it's silly to let it go past that.

Alternativly your piston rings / valve seals or similar are worn and you are going to have an expensive lesson in maintainence.


Bottom line is that if you're not sure about how to do maintainance it's probably best to make sure that you budget for someone who does to have a look at it as per th service interval.
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Old 17-07-06, 03:25 PM   #17
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Sounds like it's not just the quality of oil - does it smoke a bit when you're using engine braking, or just after you've pulled up at a junction? Would indicate valve seals. Or does it do it on full throttle? Could be rings.
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Old 17-07-06, 05:45 PM   #18
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ok just changed the opil for halfords most expensive semi synth 10w 40 motorcycle engine oil.

cleaned air box and cleaned air filter as much as i could (new filter tomorrow)



...........................................

it smokes when cold and if you rev it high it smokes black..

doesnt do it on engine brakeing tho. or at junctions.

................................................

matt. i removed the drain plug at bottom of air box and nothing came out :S

...............................................

and can soem 1 tell me why mineral oil is bad please.?



thanmks dene
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Old 17-07-06, 06:12 PM   #19
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It's not really. It doesn't last as well as semi or full synth, but it'll still do the job pretty well. Better to use dino oil and change it often than to use top-notch synth and change it every 10,000 miles... Personally I use decent quality semi but it's not the end of the world if you don't.

If I was you, I'd get a compression test done I think... I doubt all that smoke is from the airbox, if it's worse when cold that usually suggests worn or damaged barrels or rings, though there's other things it could be. A comp test will narrow it down some.
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Old 18-07-06, 08:11 AM   #20
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Definitely. Also has someone been at the carbs? Has it got a loud can? Black smoke indicates richness - either someone's done some home tuning and massively overjetted it, or the air filter is very dirty. White/blue oily smelling smoke is oil, which is bad news.

I don't have the manual to hand but since when has oil needed changing every 3500 miles? This isn't the seventies.
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