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#11 |
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Sounds like a classic RR problem that one. Problem is that once a battery has run flat it often kills the RR in the process.
The problem with the stock ones is that there is no return lead to the alternator to switch off charging when the battery is full. For this reason the RR gets damn hot and if it can't be cooled properly it's more inclined to fail as the internals fry. |
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#12 |
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That thing with the clocks going funny sounds like a problem I had with a VFR400 NC30 some years ago. The clocks would go nuts and at the same time the enging would try to stall would run REALLY badly. Took me ages to work out that there was a bad earth. A little bit of re-wiring and it was back to 100%. It took me months (and a bit of luck) to work out what was really a 15 min job!
Check your wiring. With mine it was an earth lead bolted to the frame that had corroded. I hope this helps |
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#13 |
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thanks for the reply, I wish I could try. Some *very rude words* have stolen my SV650 last night/this morning!!
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#14 |
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Yep, speedo problems on the SV can be indicative of a bad earth, or bad live, or even bad connections on the battery- that can also cause problems starting, but not be an issue once it's going. Or likewise, it can be fine for ages then cause a problem 10 starts in a row. Intermittant electrical faults can be a horror show to find, usually easy to fix once you trace them though- at the end of the day it's just wires, connectors and boxes, if it's a box replace it, if it's a wire or a connector fix it.
For the original post, I accuse the reg/rec too. Mine had an annoying intermittant failing, it was fine for ages them would completely fail to charge the battery for one commute, so I'd come back and it'd turn over once and click. Then it'd be fine for ages.
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#15 |
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Just thought I'd keep people informed and gauge opinions from the experts (that's you lot btw!).
I've just spoken to the garage and they've told me that after a run, both sparks are dead and now the coils are too?! They're looking for the cause as the battery is fine and will let me know. Is anyone in a better position to diagnose the problem as a result of this info? Cheers again all. Bud |
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#16 |
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Update as promised;
The garage removed all kinds of bits to diagnose the problem (sorry but I don't know specifically what and wouldn't want to hazard a guess with my lack of mechanical knowledge). Having thought it may be the Electronic Control Unit, they put it back together as the part wasn't available in their workshop. Low and behold, the damn thing started beautifully every time. I've now picked it up and it's running beautifully. My instinct is that something must be coming slightly loose over a period of riding time (say about 4 months - all weathers) as last time it was stripped was for a service and again, it worked beautifully for a while. Sooooo....any idea's what it's likely to be so I can be prepared? Finally, a note to say the garage didn't want to charge for the job as although they spent a few hours labour removing and repieicing the bike, they never actually diagnosed the problem and no parts were involved. I gave them a token cash gesture but that kind of gesture really restores my faith in human nature. |
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#17 |
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That's really good from the garage... Who was it?
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#18 |
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Glad to hear that its sorted, very decent of the garage.
One easy check for the RR is, immediately after you jumped it, let it idle for a few secs, then turn on full beams, indos, and the brake lights, if the bike starts to seem a bit iffy about fireing on idle at this point, I feel that it points to the RR. I have only diagnosed two bikes this way... so, ![]() Sid squid posted up a proper chk with multi meters and the like. |
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#19 | |
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#20 | |
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teknovision2 - gutted for you mate. Any luck getting it back? |
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