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#11 |
The Sick Man
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Im a semi-tart and decided to go with a GSXR Radial MC, much nicer.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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#12 |
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Cheers guys, that's 4 options that I could try then.
Will keep the mince pies peeled and see what comes up. Honda or Yamaha stuff is generally made better so would be an improvement over the Suzuki budget bits. |
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#13 | |
The Sick Man
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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#14 |
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Or you could do what I did …
I felt part of the problem was that the ‘span’ just wasn’t far enough out and that by the time I was getting pressure on the leaver (i.e. all the slack was taken up in the brakes) that it was already too near my reamining fingers (on the bar) to get a decent pull. So what did I do?? I cut a bit of alli out and slotted it in where the adjuster bit of the leaver meets the arm (ohhh that is poor explanation!! ![]() It gave me that much more ‘feel’ and power. I have done the same thing on both my road and trackbike and personally I now think they are ‘acceptable’ ![]() Give it a try, it is free and easy, it might be all you need too. |
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#15 |
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FYI,
4XV is a 98/99 R1. ![]() |
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#16 | |
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#17 |
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not to start a new topic:
is een CBR1000 K5 MC a good option? or has it a too big bore? I am looking for a better master cylinder to enhance the feeling and braking power... and what about the brake light? will the connection fit directly onto the sensor or not? |
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#18 |
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Pretty much any brake light will work one way or another, at the end of the day it's just a switch. You might need to solder it in, or it might just work. The R1 switch doesn't fit the SV connector, but the SV switch fits to the m/c, for instance.
No such thing as too big bore, IMO, it's purely a matter of taste. Maybe you want all your braking to happen in 1cm of travel, or maybe you're like me and want to use loads.
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#19 |
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I prefere a solid brakelever...
![]() sow, this MC has a bigger bore than stock SV but not way too big. do you know how much? will this MC make a big difference to the stock one or is it just a little bit better.. |
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#20 |
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Don't know really... I bought a machined-from-billet-by-virgins Brembo a while back so I care not for your inferior "Nissin" garbage
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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