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#11 | ||
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Leeds
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#12 | |
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How to resolve it for each individual alarm, speak to the manufacturer. Glad its sorted out for you now Saucerboy. |
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#13 |
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Ok, so I got had some more time to work on the alarm today.
Found the in-line fuse under the tank cover so I am now left wondering what / where the protective trigger switch is and its "green tagged wires"? Is this it? N.B. No green wires, but I assume you just press down on the sensor to close the circuit? Thanks in advance for your advice ![]() Saucerboy ![]() |
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#14 |
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That looks seriously bent out of shape to me! But yea, that's a pressure switch (fairly cheap one at that).
If you have a wiring diagram you could upload for the alarm, I could work with that a little easier for you (manufacturers usually state the diagrams are illustrative purposes only and frequently change colours, it makes the alarm more secure). If you need to replace the switch, Maplin sell a whole range of them, and dirt cheap too. If you need advice on taking the alarm out of tamper mode, best to speak to the manufacturers (or do a good big of google-fu). |
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#15 |
The Sick Man
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Most alarms have all black wires, including datatool & meta. The only colour wires on the datatool 3 loom are for arm silence/remote trigger/sensitivity level.
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#16 | |
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#17 |
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Baph, I can't seem to find any wiring diagrams on the net... but could attempt to draw one for you?!
I've got instructions for encoding a new transmitter of Datatool: 1) Remove (alarm) lid & disconnect battery from the alarm - done 2) Remove the alarm in-line fuse - done 3) Ensure Protective Trigger Switch is in a "closed" state (green tagged wires connected) - now I assume this means just press down on the wire in the above photo. 4) Make a connection between one of the wires on the Switch and the motorcycle battery positive terminal (Connect Green tagged wires to 12V) - eh, how exactly? Think I'll get started on that diagram... ![]() |
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#18 | ||
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It will probably not carry any voltage by default (as per my bike alarm) and acts as a 'negative trigger' (ie, change its state, and all hell breaks loose inside the alarm housing). Snap lock connector to run a new black wire from one of those on the switch (personal preference - but I'd say the right one - just in case my above paragraph is true), stick an eyelet connector on the other end, and hook that up to your battery +ve (pointy battery terminals are a little over 6.4mm). So now whenever the switch is closed (pressed) there's 12v floating around the circuit. Whatever the switch is protecting (seat/tank etc), lift it, and it breaks the circuit. If the circuit behaves how I think it does, this should do the trick nicely. I'd recommend some investagative work with a multi-meter, even if it takes an hour, it'll be worth it compared to fault finding on a system you don't know the workings of. |
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#19 |
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Thanks, will be experimenting with my mutlimeter
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#20 |
The Sick Man
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The green wire sounds like its part of the three option wires. You should have a small bundle of cables wrapped in tape, you may need to unwrap the loom to find them, there should be three coloured wires.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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