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#11 |
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600 mile service is also a full chassis check which DOES need to be done.
Two things though to be aware of, i wouldnt hold out on the manufacturer giving you any warranty on the engine should you home service it. Geuine parts have to be used and it be done by someone trained upon that model. Technically speaking. So bear this in mind. Also having no service history to speak of will or can devalue the bike. I certainly give less on part ex's that have been home serviced as often only the oil change is done, when the owner thinks this is all that needs doing. I know many people when looking at used bikes ask what service history the bike has and do get put off. Just what i have seen etc. |
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#12 | |
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I think he's just talking about doing an extra service at 600 anyways - can't hurt, right? |
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#13 |
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The impression i got was that at 600 miles the engine parts will have worn sufficiently to bed in, hence the oil was changed to remove many shards of metal worn from the brand new sharp edged parts. At 79miles I cant have seen the process having been completed, therefore I would change the oil again at 600.
The first lot of oil in the engine is also different to what goes in after the 600 miles service I was led to believe?
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#14 |
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It wont hurt no. The main reason for the chassis check is to ensure no bolts etc have come loose. The bike would have been through enough heat cycles for any that may come loose due to tolerances changing when they get hot etc to become aparant. Id still do that and give it a proper check over including level checks etc on coolant etc.
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#15 |
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Im off to the garage tomorrow anyway to pick up my R&G's so i may as well get the mechanic to give it the once over.
Cheers for the replies. |
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#16 | ||
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If you believe that guide about how to bed in your engine for the most power (redlining it from new, etc) then you can have it bed in within 20 miles on the road or something like that. Maybe less using the dyno method! Not to say that I am championing that - I followed the instructions of the people who gave me my warranty, and that wasn't the guy on that web page ![]() As a less extreme example, even in normal riding, doing lots of town work would be different from motorway work (you can probably still vary the rpm enough in both of those, just be a pain to do it). And that makes sense too - you can put the same loads and speeds on an engine in both 1st and 6th, so all else being the same the mileage on two bikes, one using 1st only and one using 6th only, would be dramatically different... Quote:
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#17 |
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#18 |
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Well im back from the garage and the bike has just had the full 600 mile service. Better safe than sorry and all that. With 2 services in under 600 miles it must be the best looked after R6 out there.
Good news was that it was cheap like the budgie. Around £70 parts and labour and that included fitting the R&G's...which were a bit of a bugger as the fairing had to be cut ![]() |
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#19 |
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Just the 2 either side...lower and front. No point protecting the can as it is stock and i'm actively looking for an excuse to change it. I thought about forks/swingarm but i dont want the bike to look too ugly.
I had a chat with a few people who race and they thought my setup was fine. |
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#20 | |
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