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#11 | |
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Just for anyone else (and to prevent the information lost in overkill), I found this website, which explains it quite clearly as follows:
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#12 |
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That makes it sound like if you go too far you can't go back, that isn't the case ... just wind the adjusters back and 'kick' the wheel forward a bit to re-seat.
Also something to remember is that after you re-tighten the axle nut, this can change the tension of the chain. So re-check after re-tighten. And do the aforementioned 'tight spot' check too as adjusting the chain for only one place is not good practice. It might be sounding a bit heavy now, but once you have done it the first time, it’ll all make sense and it is a very straightforward process, just takes a bit of faffing about to get it just right, but it is worth it!! ![]() Last edited by Blue_SV650S; 27-07-07 at 11:00 AM. |
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#13 |
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Look dont confuse the poor girl. Adjusting the chain is pretty straightforward. Just find a straping your lad who knows what they are doing to show you. You can do the chain with the wheel on the floor.
Putting a bike up on to a paddock stand isnt straightforward however for a slight wee lass like melody, isnt. Verna cant do it. Get a scotoiler fitted. To me, its the best thing for chain numpties, which i am. Its not a fit and forget, but easier than lubing. Im a scotoiler fan 100%. So they make your back whell dirty after a while, but thats better than buying a new chain twice as regularly. What that website doesnt say is to loosen off the brake caliper torque arm bolt at the caliper end. Last edited by Viney; 27-07-07 at 11:06 AM. |
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#14 | ||||
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Right guys
Just come back in from taking bike to the shop where I bought my battery from. I've had the charging circuit checked and thats fine, so my regulator is ok. I asked the man to check my chain for me and he said " I'd put loads more oil on it if I was you" in other words " Melody, you're gonna die" ![]() ![]() ![]() Tension is ok he told me. So I've come back in emptied what was left of my lube on the chain, cleaned off the spray off the back wheel and I'll take it out again shortly to get some more lube. I think I read somewhere that you should ride the bike pre and post lubing the chain? [quote=Viper See its not just you melody... us boys are crap as well ![]() Quote:
[quote=Blue_SV650S;1247663 p.s. you worry too much!! ![]() Now I'm worried y'all think I worry too much ![]() ![]() Quote:
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#15 |
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#16 |
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Its a shame you are right up there in Yorkshire, I could show you all you need to know in 5 mins!!
Its actually harder to explain than to do!!! ![]() Deffo keep it well lubed. Also if you have ridden in the wet, remember it will dry the chain out (of oil) more than dry!! I find a re-lube after a wet ride/day is always a good idea ![]() |
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#17 |
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Melody if you're buying new lube, try and get some stuff made by Wurth called Dry Lube, its what we use on Liz's Ducati as that hasnt got a Scotoiler on it and seems to work really well, it doesnt fling off anywhere near as badly as some of the other lubes we've used.
Its best to lube after you've taken the bike for a run as the chain will be warm then and it helps the lube get into all the nooks and crannies of the chain.
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Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. K5 GSXR 750 Anniversary Edition |
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#18 |
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I'd vote for the scottoiler, more than pays for itself in the life of one chain. Dramatically reduces the frequency with which you need to adjust it (at times I've had my rear tyre changed more frequently than my chain has needed adjusting).
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#19 |
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#20 | |
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![]() I'm off now to get me some Wurth Dry Lube. |
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