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#11 |
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All this wonderful information is in the little book that comes with the bike.
It's called "The Owners Manual", you do get them in England right? ![]() |
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#12 |
Trinity
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#13 | |
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Erm, nope twas second hand. And if I knew all the correct terms for all the bobbins that would help but as I don't I describe the problem as best I can to people that know more than me. More trustworthy than the word of a mechanic any day! |
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#14 |
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I see, the books get lost over here too. I forgot about the used bikes sometimes not having them. So here you go.
![]() Last edited by Jimmie; 02-10-07 at 01:54 PM. |
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#15 |
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Sid Squids explanation somehow puts it better I feel.
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#16 |
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Cheers Jimmie...slightly blonde qeuestion:
So, I don't need to hold my clutch all the way into the bar so change gears? Seems kinda wrong to me.... |
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#17 |
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Yep, that right just pull it in far enough so that the clutch disengages the drive.
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#18 | |
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#19 |
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This is all well & good for folk with long digits but if you have short square podgy hands and fingers like me then reaching all the way out before the clutch bites is a pain in the ...erm...wrists? Very bad in stop-go traffic with lots of clutch work. When I first picked the bike up the clutch started biting when the lever was around half way out and was was fully engaged by about 2/3rds. This was comfortable for me but after the first service some numpty must have altered it to the text book setting and I kept revving the crap out of the bike pulling away from the lights for the first few days, till I got used to it.
Problem is see, I don't have text book hands!! ![]() |
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#20 |
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you can add extra slack in the cable if needed, but the clutch mechanism by the front sprocket should be adjusted properly
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