Question about oil changes.

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Even if you do change the filter it'll be black in, oooh, about thirty seconds anyway - even changing the filter doesn't get all the old oil out which will immediately colour the new oil.
BTW, for anyone worrying about it this isn't a problem.

I always knew that; it would be silly to drain the engine completly of oil! I guess I'm just worried my engine is getting a much harder life than it could be because I'm leaving the service intervals too long.

[Gazza77]

Originally Posted by alpinestarhero

I always knew that; it would be silly to drain the engine completly of oil! I guess I'm just worried my engine is getting a much harder life than it could be because I'm leaving the service intervals too long.

Only comment I'd make is to change the filter with every oil change. It's not like they're that expensive is it?!

Originally Posted by Gazza77

Only comment I'd make is to change the filter with every oil change. It's not like they're that expensive is it?!

I always change the filter

na, not expensive....if you get the filter from the right place.

the suzuki shop in finchley is not the right place. suzuki spares direct is the right place

[embee]

In engine development the oil will be analysed regularly to determine things like degradation and contamination (for example coolant from leaking gasketing), also wear metals can be detected (useful for the development of things like liner/piston ring durability etc).

Oil starts off with a known "total base number" or TBN, which in effect indicates the capacity to absorb/neutralise the acids from combustion. Reduction in TBN shows how quickly it is using up the capability and gives an idea of a realistic service life.

As mentioned previously, particles greater than the minimum oil film thickness (typically con-rod big-end bearings at TDC firing) will accelerate the wear rate and are often the limiting factor in useful oil service life. Industrial/commercial diesels often have multi-stage filtering systems to extend the oil change interval.

For your common or garden bike engine just stick to the recommended change interval and all will be fine.

To quote the great Kevin Cameron, 'Sportbike Performance Handbook' p169 "There's certainly no harm in changing oil more often than recommended". There's an excellent chapter on everything you need to know about oil. If you're worried about it then a 2000/3000 mile oil change seems to me the sensible thing to do. Your engine will be the better for it and it will give you peace of mind. Oh and by the way, at the risk of sounding pedantic, the Suzuki recommended service interval is every 3500 miles.

Ok let me ask if oil is clear in inspection window after say 5000 miles would it need changed? Plus whats the point in changing the oil and not the filer forgive me been only for three years lol newbie virgin lol

[Stu]

Originally Posted by thebluelion

Ok let me ask if oil is clear in inspection window after say 5000 miles

a miracle

would it need changed?

yes

Plus whats the point in changing the oil and not the filer

some people are cheap sometimes is a little less effort. I thought the manual said every other oil change that you change the fiter, but itsimply says change both every maintenance interval

forgive me been only for three years lol newbie virgin lol

I would agree with sticking to the service mileage intervals, or change the oil once a year whatever comes first.
If your happy enough to lash out on more frequent changes then so be it, cannot do any harm.
Re semi & fully synthetic oils ,what do Suzuki say about these oils, what do they put in their bikes during shipping from the factory?

[yorkie_chris]

They say use API SF / SG 10w40.

There are semi and fully synth oils that meet this, I use the motul 5100 which is an ester synthetic, because my local motor factor sells it, I would be fine with using equivalent semi synthetic. Ironically most of the bike oils are not API certified (so not technically fitting what the book says!), they will have the JASO MA stamp which is what you should look for really.

[Stu]

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=125457

(Although I wish that thread could be updated to include Hein gericke sells the cheapest motorcycle specific 10W/40 at £13.99 (currently on offer at £12) for 4 litres)