Hot Grips to Ignition wiring?

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Ploppy

It won't compromise on anything, by connecting the hot grip live to the ignition and neutral directly on the battery you are basically creating a new circuit but using the ignition as the on switch. Won't effect the running of the rest of the electric system, it will only draw more current from the battery and that isn't an issue if the alternator/charging system is working to charge the battery

But it is unfused, so if there's a fault it will kill the bike not the grips.

Originally Posted by Alpinestarhero

firstly, RE: scotchlock - my dad was more than happy to use one with my heated grips; he's used them plenty of times before with no problems...I trust his judgement and its working fine for me

Good stuff, but I've seen them cause the front end of a loom to catch fire. They're a bodge!

When you close them up around a decent size wire (like the orange out of the ignition), you chop through a load of the conductors, and create an entry point for any salty water to cause corrosion. Which will make this worse, and the next thing you know the insulation melts from the high current in the narrowed point, shorts against the headlight mounts and the next thing you know you've smoked the headlight glass from the inside...

[21QUEST]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

But it is unfused, so if there's a fault it will kill the bike not the grips.



Good stuff, but I've seen them cause the front end of a loom to catch fire. They're a bodge!

When you close them up around a decent size wire (like the orange out of the ignition), you chop through a load of the conductors, and create an entry point for any salty water to cause corrosion. Which will make this worse, and the next thing you know the insulation melts from the high current in the narrowed point, shorts against the headlight mounts and the next thing you know you've smoked the headlight glass from the inside...

Now, you lot are making me worried

The bike I've got at the moment has a few extra bits on it and inside the headlight bowl is just that bit scary...plenty of those scotchlock things in there lol.

To be honest, never really liked the things myself and was quite shock when I found out how stuff had been wired in. Ah well, here's hoping ....



Cheers
Ben

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

But it is unfused, so if there's a fault it will kill the bike not the grips.



Good stuff, but I've seen them cause the front end of a loom to catch fire. They're a bodge!

When you close them up around a decent size wire (like the orange out of the ignition), you chop through a load of the conductors, and create an entry point for any salty water to cause corrosion. Which will make this worse, and the next thing you know the insulation melts from the high current in the narrowed point, shorts against the headlight mounts and the next thing you know you've smoked the headlight glass from the inside...

Hmm, maybe for safety then, I'll splice and solder properly when I get my new ignition lock unit. Perhaps this is why my dad wasnt fussed about the scotchlock aswell - its not going to be a permanent connection as such

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

But it is unfused, so if there's a fault it will kill the bike not the grips.

they are fused they come as standard with an in line fuse so everything is good.

Like i said before about the scotchlocks, ive used them and ive never had a problem with them but taking the time to solder is a much classier finish.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by Ploppy

I agree in regards to the life expectancy of mods being less that the original wiring but in this case it's very minor.

The number of accessory electrical problems I fix suggests otherwise.

Originally Posted by Ploppy

The grips are fused so if there is a problem it won't trip the rest of the electrics and if you do have to take it out completly then it's not a problem either.

Not all fuses are created equal - despite their rated current characteristics even fuses of a similar capacity take surprisingly different times to operate.
Even if the grip's fuse is of a lower rating than the fuse upstream of it, it may well take longer to pop than its supply fuse - if that's the main fuse the bike dies.

Much of this may seem academic, but I do electrical stuff, (in a variety of circumstances, vehicles included), for a living and I assure you that stuff that can go wrong does, the small cost of a relay, and the little time required to fit it adds a negligible amount to the job of fitting heated grips.

scotchlocks, are they one fits all (wires sizes?) I am needing to fit a second hand PC3 so wondering if that is a good item to use...

[yorkie_chris]

No there are couple sizes
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ectors.php#tap

P.S that site also sells some very nice weatherproof connectors, soldering kit and crimp connectors to do the job properly...

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

No there are couple sizes
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ectors.php#tap

P.S that site also sells some very nice weatherproof connectors, soldering kit and crimp connectors to do the job properly...

Which sort of weather proof connectors are you meaning? I cant really solder as its a tiny thin wire that goes to the TPS, cutting that back or basically doing anything to the wire means a lot of work...

I wonder if Id just be able to get a connector that Dynojet actually supply with the PC3's?

(Like I mention its for the TPS tap)

[yorkie_chris]

Remove the tab out of the connector and solder a thin signal wire around the crimp?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Remove the tab out of the connector and solder a thin signal wire around the crimp?

Sealed connectors...