Michelins or Dunlops

Jeesh! Some shops are only selling the Endurance compound rear (which is like someone promising one thing and delivering something very dissapointing instead) and other sites are saying they are the GP-A spec tyres made in the USA! (not as good as UK made Dunlops)

Please Dunlop, Just give us the range, made in the UK, to Uk spec, in all the compounds!

PLEEZ!

C

This might be a nobbers question and I read it on MCN so again it may be carp but has anyone tried BT-023's as they are saying its a trackday tyre with normal road endurance.

Or can someone suggest a cheaper comparable tyre to a Dragon SuperCorsa sc2's as £229 is a bit much for something thats as old as the hills.

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by hardhat_harry

This might be a nobbers question and I read it on MCN so again it may be carp but has anyone tried BT-023's as they are saying its a trackday tyre with normal road endurance.

Or can someone suggest a cheaper comparable tyre to a Dragon SuperCorsa sc2's as £229 is a bit much for something thats as old as the hills.

I know what you on about, but I take that with a pinch of salt.
They can be used for TD's a friends used a 021 on a track, but I'd think there would not be much left.

A BT016 scrub on a R6 had not much left after tares etc at cadwell.

I think TC252 ran Conti Roadattacks for part of the season and there was not a lot of damage to them

On the SV it takes me 3 trackdays to wreck a set of Supercorsa's so it gets expensive but its all relative as my mate wrecks a set per trackday on a GSXR750 but he is mentally fast.

You can race on any tyre out there, but you aren't going to be up at the front

I told Tony he would lose 4 seconds a lap by changing to Race rubber.

He took the Conti's off and put some Sc diablo scrubs on and... instantly lost 4 seconds a lap

4 seconds is an eternity!

When you're fighting for fractions of a second, tyres need to be as good as you can afford. Folks run either Sc Pro's, Sc Diablos or Power One's (and soon to be GP211's) for a reason.

C

bugger 2 lots of £229 for almeria then

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by Berlin

You can race on any tyre out there, but you aren't going to be up at the front

I told Tony he would lose 4 seconds a lap by changing to Race rubber.

He took the Conti's off and put some Sc diablo scrubs on and... instantly lost 4 seconds a lap

4 seconds is an eternity!

When you're fighting for fractions of a second, tyres need to be as good as you can afford. Folks run either Sc Pro's, Sc Diablos or Power One's (and soon to be GP211's) for a reason.

C

To add to that, put a Sport tourer or even a Supersport Road tire (Sportsmarts and similar) next to a Diablo or any track rubber and feel how different they feel. the sport tourer is rock hard (carcass) compared to the sc

Originally Posted by hardhat_harry

bugger 2 lots of £229 for almeria then

You need a very hard tyre for Almeria. It is the most abrasive track i've ridden. I used a set of slicks a day on a thou round there.

If i was going again (which i might next year) i would look at taking corsa 3 rears and SC2 fronts.

Originally Posted by Berlin

Just for clarifiction The new generation rears are supposed to be run at much lower pressures than the "older" versions. Running the Dunlop 211GP, Power One at the usual 28-31psi Hot will lead to massive cold tearing (and the usual complaints that they don't last long).

The racetec interact is less affected as its supposed to be run at a slightly higher 24psi hot. Saying that, out of the three, I ran the Interact at 28-29psi Hot and it was fine. the other two most definitely were not.

Acording to the Michelin Power One website you are supposed to run the front at 2.1 bar (30.5 psi ) and the rear at 1.9 bar (27.5 psi)(hot) but its now commonly regarded at being 19-21psi rear pressure hot. That stops the tearing.

I ran these (very dubiously) at 21psi hot at a Cadwell track day with an air temp of just 6 degrees. As it was open pit lane, I decided to give it a go and I was amazed when it worked. Chatting later to the Tyre guy at Croft, about some mild tearing even at 21psi hot he told me to go down to 18-19psi hot and it worked. This was on the 600.

C

Just to clear up these tyre pressures for people, don't want anyone going out and crashing from this info.

The pressures that Carl is quoting are for the 180/190 tyres. The 160's do not run the stiff side wall and so run at the higher pressures.

They should be 33 Front and 28 rear dropping a couple of PSI when the weather is hot.

First test on the Sunday at Rockingham on them............

Hi Toot, lots of unconfirmed information in htis thread so I Emailed Dunlop for clarification..

From the horses mouth, so to speak..

Hi Carl,

I can assure you that the GP Racer D211 trackday tyre has an NTEC
construction.

Because it's a trackday tyre it differs a little from our race NTEC
construction in that it is slightly more compliant.

The inflation pressures for the rear are:
Cold: 17-22psi
In 80degC warmers: 19-24psi
Hot Running: 23-28psi

For racing we've found that pressures in the middle of these windows worked
best for us but this will depend on bike and set-up.

If you're running a GP Racer D211 on the front you'll need to go for a
Medium and the pressures are:
Cold: 29-30psi
In 80degC warmers: 33psi
Hot Running: 34-37psi

There's no reason why you couldn't use our D211GP race tyre on the front.
Pressure windows are the same as for the GP Racer D211 front. For compound
advice call our Motorsport Division on 0121 306 7072.

By the way, I learned yesterday that Ryan Farquhar will be using a front
D211GP/rear GP Racer D211 on his ER6 for Irish road races this year. He'd
tested other makes of tyre on his bike but found this pairing the best by
quite a margin.

All the best

Bryn Phillips
Product Support Manager, Motorcycle
Dunlop Tyres UK Ltd

So be aware when ordering tyres that the D211GP is NOT the same as the GP Racer D211