SV brake rebuild, 'Red and Tacky' grease suitable?

Originally Posted by otaylor38

But nevermind, it works and thats the main thing. Can you tell much difference?

Eh, not much visually, there's a loop that circles through the guide hole bit on the swing arm, its not massive, and it'll be hidden by the exhaust so I'm not that fussed. Haven't had it out on the road yet as I'm yet to bleed the front brakes but the rear seems to work fine.

Sounds good. Id be interested to hear if the front braided hoses make a noticeable improvement on the feel. If you wouldnt mind letting me know at some point mate .

It's all ready got braided on the front. Now, from my last SV that didn't have braided, it's a HUGE improvement, and that's without the brakes being rebuilt in 40,000+ miles, I really cannot wait to try these out with new seals and properly greased!

I'd highly recommend braided lines to anyone that doesn't, along with a brake rebuild.
Next task is to sort out the front end to improve the braking even more, I'm thinking CBR-F3 cartridges or emulators and rated springs.

Thats what i wanted to hear . Brilliant .

Yeah i rebuilt mine last year. They needed doing as the dust seal popped out. I may well upgrade the lines this year .

I dont think youll any extra braking powerbwill you? Sv's arenrt rhe fastest bike in the world

After T-boning the last SV into the side of a car that pulled out on me on a round about, I would love some properly working brakes and less of a diving nose!

Thats a fair shout, cant argue with that! Haha.

I wrote my 125 off to a similar scenerio. Its no fun!

In an ideal world, ABS would be a no brainier. Pull and stamp on the levers as hard as you can and they won't lock!

[jambo]

Originally Posted by Mikey360

Slight problem with a new braided cable being too long, apparently its a common problem for 1 in 10 pointy SV's? Can't say I've ever heard of the swingarm being extra long or the rear caliper/master cylinder being mounted differently. Solved it by looping the braided line, its not a tight loop at all, not rubbing on anything and won't catch anything. That shouldn't cause any problems should it??

This should be no issue aside from the visual, depends where you are on the OCD spectrum...

As a side note it may be a K3 item, or I believe the swingarms for the N models turned out to be longer, at least for the curvy and against most of our expectations.

Originally Posted by Mikey360

and very lightly copper greased the sliding pins.

I'd check that if I were you. Most sliding pins go into rubber boots (not got a pointy rear caliper to hand) if the grease is going to touch rubber at any point, pop the caliper back off, wipe the copper grease off and replace it with red rubber grease. The copper grease can be absorbed into the rubber which swells it, which can cause the sliding pin to get pinched and stick. By that point you often need a new boot.

I'm sure it'll be fine for a short time but I'd clean and re-grease if it were me.

Jambo

[timwilky]

I think by sliding pins, the OP is referring to the pad retaining pins, on which the pads slide. Copper slip on these was always good advise as they would seize.

He is not referring to the sliding pins on which the front calipers float and should use RRG due to the rubber boot.

[jambo]

Originally Posted by timwilky

I think by sliding pins, the OP is referring to the pad retaining pins, on which the pads slide. Copper slip on these was always good advise as they would seize.

He is not referring to the sliding pins on which the front calipers float and should use RRG due to the rubber boot.

Hopefully so, in which case my point is uttterly redundant, however, the pointy rear caliper is a single piston sliding effort, rather than the curvy's twin piston opposing layout, so there is a potential for it to be an actual sliding pin as with the front.

Jambo