K3 front end

[glang]

This is an S right? The clip ons go below the top clamp and the fork tube is set so its top is exactly level with the top clamp. All shown in the excellent Suzuki workshop manual free to download online....

[Fazer Fail]

Hi yes 2003 S model was converted to bars and aftermarket top yoke but in this time forks were off to get seals done or so history says.

Yes clip on are below the yoke and seated in the retaining lug, when the oem yoke was refitted the top of the forks are uneven one side 4.5 mm below the surface, other 3.6 mm below the surface.

I assume the flush means the top of the tops flush with the thickness of the top cap showing or bang on flush with the top cap?

The poor old thing had a saggy rear shock and it seems raised front end must have felt very different.

[garynortheast]

On my curvy the stanchion is flush with the top of the yoke, and the cap sits proud of the yoke with just the thickness showing, as you suggest.

[Fazer Fail]

Seeking assistance think I have screwed up!

Sons K3S put the forks back in after fitting YSS PD valves (emulators) 2.5 turns out. The damper rods had the small bleed hole filled in and the lower holes enlarged and 2 more holes added as per YSS instructions. Race Tech 0.90 linear springs, spacers cut to give correct preload. Filled with SKF 15W fork oil.

They are VERY stiff struggle to compress them,they sag as pre load should for the bike its self.

Son took it out to shake it down feels rigid but bumps are taken well it soaks them up and feels softer for sharp quick movements, but solid for for slow stuff example he gave potholes and ruts in the road are felt less than slowly edging up a lowered kerb for example. This sounds like the emulators are doing the job when the spring is overcome and the oil flows quicker?

Is the stiffness down to the spring weight but its what rece tech recommended for his weight on this bike, or is it a hydraulic issue?

The YSS PD valve was meant to be for this bike I noticed the small bleed holes on the outer edges of the 4 only 1 was fully drilled the other 3 are not drilled looking like part drilled. Anyone else found this could lack of oil flow be the problem?

Is the oil weight the issue is 15w SKF too thick for the emulators? would a thinner weight reduce the resistance?

I expected a stiffer front end and less dive but not almost rigid like this.

Any help appreciated

Thanks

[garynortheast]

That does sound like a bit like spring weight. Bibio may have better advice for you though when he sees this. Have you spoken to Race Tech about this?

[Fazer Fail]

I bought the springs third party used racetech calculator to get spring weight.

Going to check alignment make sure no binding issues

After that put oem springs and spacers in see what that does

Then try lighter oil I know SKF 15w feels like others 20W

Not sure I need to adjust the YSS emulator as my understanding they will only control fast or medium compression, not sure what effect it has on low speed?

Will work through it one step at time once i have the tike to do it!

[Bibio]

Your fork oil is way too heavy. Try silkoline 7.5w.

The hardest part is getting the popper valve in the emulators right and this takes lots of messing about. Too much preload on the valve and it wont react to sudden bumps too little and it dives too much. I personally dont like them, they are ok for racing but a bit feirce for road use. The compression on the standard sv forks eas ok its the rebound that needs addressing.

[Fazer Fail]

Hi thanks for the reply yes oil weight makes sense I think I got that weight from the Fazer groups and the recommendation for SKF oil.
Anyways I swapped out to OEM springs was softer but still felt like it was sticking.
Took out emulators OEM springs moved freeky but very soft.
Put the 0.9 linear springs back in no emulators, moves freely feels much better stiffer springe sag like they should etc.

Problem is I have modified the damper rods opened up the holes and added 2 more, also welded up the small hole at the top.
Now I have done this do I need to fit emulators? Will the opening up of the damper rod destroy the compression damping? The thicker oil seems to be cancelling it out as feel well damped rebound is well controlled does not bounce just returns as it should.

Seeking advice if this is safe to use as is or do I need to to get thinner oil and use the emulators?

All advice welcome thanks

[GeorgeRYoung]

Here's my write-up on adding YSS emulators to a SV650S 2003 front end.


https://web.ncf.ca/ag136/SV650Gen2/Y...Emulators.html


My understanding of current SV650 wisdom is to enlarge existing damper holes but don't add any new holes or it will screw up damping. Suggest welding the new ones closed if possible.

[Fazer Fail]

Hi thanks for the reply.

I differed from your guide in that I welded up the rebound hole at the top, and enlarged the damper holes to 8.5/9 mm and added an extra pair.

The core difference is the oil weight Silkoline 15W, it appears way too heavy to work with the emulators.

I set the emulators at 2.5 turns out on intial ride my son commented that speed bumps and cracks in the road we well damped better than he felt before but only above about 20mph below this felt rock hard.

Therefor i think the emulators are working just the oil too thick, just wary of poor rebound with thinner oil as it very well controlled with the 15W.

As for welding up the 2 extra holes at 9mm I think that a bit beyond practical, my understanding was this diabled the damping effect as it was replaced by the emulator?
It seems the 15W oil is so thick it even over comes the enlarged damper holes.