I've got two hours spare this afternoon.....

[rictus01]

Originally Posted by bikageboy

i always thought that the sqealing noise came from the pads rubbing on the discs.

so how exactly does copper grease stop the noise ?

it acts between the brake pad backing and the caliper pistons (metal on metal) their is a small amount of movement between the two surfaces which causes the noise without any lubrication.

Cooper grease has a high failure temprature than normal grease.

Cheers Mark.

[Viney]

Originally Posted by rictus01

it acts between the brake pad backing and the caliper pistons (metal on metal) their is a small amount of movement between the two surfaces which causes the noise without any lubrication.

Cooper grease has a high failure temprature than normal grease.

Cheers Mark.

What he said

ok -
so what about
pinking and knocking. what to they mean ? and how do you know the difference between the two ?

also - how do braided hoses work over standard ones?

how can you tell when you need new brake fluid ?

Originally Posted by bikageboy

ok -
so what about
pinking and knocking. what to they mean ? and how do you know the difference between the two ?

also - how do braided hoses work over standard ones?



how can you tell when you need new brake fluid ?

Bloody Hell Bikeage. So many Q's

Pinking is pre ignition. When the fuel combusts before the piston reaches top dead centre of it's travel. It is caused by bad timing, poor quality fuel amounst other things. I think knocking is the same.

Braided hoses are just normal rubber hoses with a metal sheath or "braid" around them. Rubber hoses will expand slightly when pressure is applied internally. Ie. when you pull the brakes. The metal sheathed ones do not expand as much, making your brakes less spongey and more snappy.

You can tell when you need new brake fluid when it starts going honey coloured in the reservoir. The fluid gradually breaks down over time as it is repeatedly heated and cooled. Brake fluid is also hydroscopic so it absorbs water. This is not good as water expands when hot and causes bubbles in the brake fluid, giving you at best a spongey lever. At worst the moisture will seize your caliper pistons. It is a relatively easy job to bleed the brakes if you have the right tools. My entire brake bleed kit probably cost £8.

[mattSV]

When you squeeze your brake lever, it forces brake fluid from the reservoir to the brake cylinders - this pushes the piston onto the pad, which is what makes you stop (hopefully).

Standard hoses, which are made from rubber tend to expand a bit when you squeeze the brake lever due to the increase in pressure. Braided hoses are shrouded in a metal sleeve, which prevents the hoses from expanding - therefore all the pressure is applied directly to the piston, rather than losing a bit in the hoses.

I think recommendation is to change fluid every 4 years, however if you are a heavy brake user (e.g. lots of track days) then you will need to do it more regularly. It will probably need changing as soon you begin to notice a change in your braking performance (e.g. lever pulled back to the bars and still not stopping!) - assuming that pads/calipers etc are all ok.

[northwind]

I've got 2 hours spare tomorrow, can I fit my K3 cams, replace the rear subframe, get to HG and pick up a new bottle of Scottoiler 365, fit my new double bubble screen, clean up my spare wheel, replace the rear brake lever, order some british racing green and some silver paint plus primer and clear coat, prep all the rest of my panels, replace my choke cables, fit the bits of my Dynojet kit that aren't main jets, document the Veypor fitting and shakedown, check my valve clearances, lube all the other cables and find out what's wrong with my Glowgauges tach gauge and fix it?

Originally Posted by northwind

I've got 2 hours spare tomorrow, can I fit my K3 cams, replace the rear subframe, get to HG and pick up a new bottle of Scottoiler 365, fit my new double bubble screen, clean up my spare wheel, replace the rear brake lever, order some british racing green and some silver paint plus primer and clear coat, prep all the rest of my panels, replace my choke cables, fit the bits of my Dynojet kit that aren't main jets, document the Veypor fitting and shakedown, check my valve clearances, lube all the other cables and find out what's wrong with my Glowgauges tach gauge and fix it?

I bet "NO", but give it a go fella.

I think it took 2 hours to explain everything to bikageboy



I always thought of doing one of those bike mechanic courses....

Originally Posted by fraser01

I always thought of doing one of those bike mechanic courses....

Aye! It's the thought that counts!

[rictus01]

Originally Posted by northwind

I've got 2 hours spare tomorrow, can I fit my K3 cams, replace the rear subframe, get to HG and pick up a new bottle of Scottoiler 365, fit my new double bubble screen, clean up my spare wheel, replace the rear brake lever, order some british racing green and some silver paint plus primer and clear coat, prep all the rest of my panels, replace my choke cables, fit the bits of my Dynojet kit that aren't main jets, document the Veypor fitting and shakedown, check my valve clearances, lube all the other cables and find out what's wrong with my Glowgauges tach gauge and fix it?

Question:- do you smoke