Biggest SUPRISE expense on your bike? - Page 3 - SV650.org

08-12-05, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceri JC

Tyres. I knew before I started riding that bike tyres cost more and need replacing sooner than cars, but it didn't really sink in until I was paying for them quite how often/much it is. Whereas on a car I don't notice it, on a bike it's almost as much as servicing it.

Yes, tell me about it... The 'Blade is just coming up to 9k miles and I'm on my third rear, just over 4k per tyre. But I guess spinning it up at the Ace doesn't really help much either

At least the SV will be cheaper to re-boot than the CBR....

.

08-12-05, 01:47 PM

Was my biggest supprise, when approaching a 90degree corner and slowing the bike down, the backend started to feel a bit soapy?

No.

Was it when let go of the rear break and the back end STILL felt al squirmy?

No.

Was it when i looked down and saw the ignition light was on, meaning the engine had stalled because i had used too much rear break, locked the wheel and stalled the engine, and running out of road meant keeping the front break on and thus no weight on the rear to get it spinning again?

No.

Was it when, now going slow enough and leaned the bike into the corner the back wheel swung right around and past the front wheel?

No, but this is a very very close second!

Well, was it when the bike eventualy found grip at the rear and high sided me off to the other side of the road?

No, to be honest, by this time a was expecting this to happen so it's not really a surprise.

Was it when two days later i worked out that waht i should have done when a saw the engine had stalled, all i needed to do was pull the clutch in and i would've free wheeled around the corner without any problem at all.

No, but i felt real stupid.

Was it when i went round to the local garage and asked for a price for a list of parts i was told it would likely be about £1500.00 for the parts and then fitting on top of that.

No, no, no,... The biggest surprise was when I logged onto the internet and ordered all the parts i need from America. As the exchange rate was $1.80 to £1.00 i got all the bits i needed for little over half the price including customs and excise duty, and fitted it all my self.

08-12-05, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jelster

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceri JC

Tyres. I knew before I started riding that bike tyres cost more and need replacing sooner than cars, but it didn't really sink in until I was paying for them quite how often/much it is. Whereas on a car I don't notice it, on a bike it's almost as much as servicing it.

Yes, tell me about it... The 'Blade is just coming up to 9k miles and I'm on my third rear, just over 4k per tyre. But I guess spinning it up at the Ace doesn't really help much either

At least the SV will be cheaper to re-boot than the CBR....

.

yep my hayabusa has done 5500 miles so far and has gone throgh 5 rear tyres and 3 fronts. i wouldnt mind if i was riding it like a lunatic, but this is a varied type of riding! tranalp goes through a set of tyres every 6000 miles at half the cost of a set of busa tyres

08-12-05, 04:38 PM

A regulator, a few weeks after I bought it.
I thought that if anything on a bike would go, sealed modular electronic bits, on a Jap bike, would be the least likely. I would have thought moving mech. parts would be much more likely to bomb. Main bearings, chains, etc.
I was really suprised when I read up that regs fail left and right. I this point, I just assume that non-moving electronic parts work unless they are physically in peices.
Picked up a new one on ebay for a tenner, and there hasnt been a problem since.

08-12-05, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Was it when i looked down and saw the ignition light was on, meaning the engine had stalled because i had used too much rear break, locked the wheel and stalled the engine, and running out of road meant keeping the front break on and thus no weight on the rear to get it spinning again?

Bugger.
Huh.
I have just realised I have no idea what my clutch hand does when I am doing the serious braking. I know that even the slightest little bounce of clutch will pop the engine back... the bouncing is the important part, not dropping. Just twitch the clutch out for a second.

What is the recomended stragegy? (I think I swing out of the frnt brake, slide back on the saddle, have the cluch in, and lean on the back till it just slips and then back off slightly.)

Viney · 08-12-05, 05:35 PM

I love these threads.

Service it yourself save yourself money. Ok this is cool, if you are mechanicaly competent, have a tool kit, and are happy to work outsie if you dont have a garage. It can, as i have seen many times before, cost you darn site more in the long run. If you can afford it, take it to a garage. I know what im doing when it comes to engines, its just the fact that i cant be arsed to service my bike, and i would rather pay for someone to do it. Simple really

Biggest surprise....not really had one to be honest, then again after owning a Toyota for a year, and now a volvo, you come to realise that bikes are cheap!!!

glade · 08-12-05, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viney

I love these threads.
Biggest surprise....not really had one to be honest, then again after owning a Toyota for a year, and now a volvo, you come to realise that bikes are cheap!!!

i was hoping this... after £70 p/h renault labour!

I suppose with every car/bike/property you're going to have unforseen problems and it all costs £££$£$£$$£.

08-12-05, 07:54 PM

£42 to fit R&GS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

08-12-05, 08:01 PM

on the subject of service changes there are so many jobs that you can do yourself in an afternoon that would cost your at your dealer, plus it quite good fub getting to know how the bike works. Fair enough if it your brakes and your not condifdent get a dealer to do it but i really cant justify taking it to the dealers and getting charged over £100 to have the oil changed.

08-12-05, 08:25 PM

Front caliper rebuild and new discs (where they warped due to the calipers) = £500

Then i decided to buy a torque wrench, a workshop manual and a set of tools, add the price of a set of discs and i was still £100+ short of the price of someone else doing it

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08-12-05, 01:47 PM	#22
splund Guest Posts: n/a	Was my biggest supprise, when approaching a 90degree corner and slowing the bike down, the backend started to feel a bit soapy? No. Was it when let go of the rear break and the back end STILL felt al squirmy? No. Was it when i looked down and saw the ignition light was on, meaning the engine had stalled because i had used too much rear break, locked the wheel and stalled the engine, and running out of road meant keeping the front break on and thus no weight on the rear to get it spinning again? No. Was it when, now going slow enough and leaned the bike into the corner the back wheel swung right around and past the front wheel? No, but this is a very very close second! Well, was it when the bike eventualy found grip at the rear and high sided me off to the other side of the road? No, to be honest, by this time a was expecting this to happen so it's not really a surprise. Was it when two days later i worked out that waht i should have done when a saw the engine had stalled, all i needed to do was pull the clutch in and i would've free wheeled around the corner without any problem at all. No, but i felt real stupid. Was it when i went round to the local garage and asked for a price for a list of parts i was told it would likely be about £1500.00 for the parts and then fitting on top of that. No, no, no,... The biggest surprise was when I logged onto the internet and ordered all the parts i need from America. As the exchange rate was $1.80 to £1.00 i got all the bits i needed for little over half the price including customs and excise duty, and fitted it all my self.

08-12-05, 04:38 PM	#24
philipMac Guest Posts: n/a	A regulator, a few weeks after I bought it. I thought that if anything on a bike would go, sealed modular electronic bits, on a Jap bike, would be the least likely. I would have thought moving mech. parts would be much more likely to bomb. Main bearings, chains, etc. I was really suprised when I read up that regs fail left and right. I this point, I just assume that non-moving electronic parts work unless they are physically in peices. Picked up a new one on ebay for a tenner, and there hasnt been a problem since.

08-12-05, 05:35 PM	#26
Viney Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: In the shadows to the left Posts: 7,700	I love these threads. Service it yourself save yourself money. Ok this is cool, if you are mechanicaly competent, have a tool kit, and are happy to work outsie if you dont have a garage. It can, as i have seen many times before, cost you darn site more in the long run. If you can afford it, take it to a garage. I know what im doing when it comes to engines, its just the fact that i cant be arsed to service my bike, and i would rather pay for someone to do it. Simple really Biggest surprise....not really had one to be honest, then again after owning a Toyota for a year, and now a volvo, you come to realise that bikes are cheap!!!

08-12-05, 07:54 PM	#28
suzsv650 Guest Posts: n/a	£42 to fit R&GS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

08-12-05, 08:01 PM	#29
tomjones2 Guest Posts: n/a	on the subject of service changes there are so many jobs that you can do yourself in an afternoon that would cost your at your dealer, plus it quite good fub getting to know how the bike works. Fair enough if it your brakes and your not condifdent get a dealer to do it but i really cant justify taking it to the dealers and getting charged over £100 to have the oil changed.

08-12-05, 08:25 PM	#30
svrash Guest Posts: n/a	Front caliper rebuild and new discs (where they warped due to the calipers) = £500 Then i decided to buy a torque wrench, a workshop manual and a set of tools, add the price of a set of discs and i was still £100+ short of the price of someone else doing it