Rotor puller tool (cost)

Originally Posted by Fuzz

AFAIK higher octane fuel copes with compression better. As the compression ratio is not being altered, I would think that it makes no difference and 95RON should be fine.

I could be wrong, of course

isn't a higher octain better against incontrolled burning of fuel? the incontrolled burning has a name which I forgot...
the valves get also hotter and you will need other "ignition candles" (=bougies)

sorry for the offtopic btw, but what does "AFAIK" mean?

[northwind]

Pinging, possibly? Advancing the ignition can have a similiar affect to raising compression. I was advised at the time that normal pump should be absolutely fine- though I use BP Ultimate usually anyway, since I'm easily impressed by marketing.

AFAIK means As Far As I Know.

Originally Posted by northwind

Pinging, possibly? Advancing the ignition can have a similiar affect to raising compression. I was advised at the time that normal pump should be absolutely fine- though I use BP Ultimate usually anyway, since I'm easily impressed by marketing.

AFAIK means As Far As I Know.

pinging it is

sorry to correct you northwind, but AFAIK i was told an a Belgian forum that advancing the ignition has nothing smiliar to raising compression, because you don't change any geomitry of the cilinder. but the advancing causes more fuel to burn => more heat.

I can be wrong...

I presume on your repley that you have done this modification? do you feel a big difference? as I can see on the graf, you get a lot more power in the lower rpm's, does that effect your driving, I mean when you advance from a stop...

do you feel any difference when you get 95 in stead of 98 fuel?

I believe the term is knocking (or pinking) when the fuel ignites before the spark fires.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Engine_knocking

Changing the igniton advance should not create knocking. It does not burn more fuel, it only starts the ignition earlier. If it is advanced too far, it can have an effect like knocking.

If the spark fires ATDC, the piston is already travelling down on the power stroke by the time the fuel combusts. This means that the compression has been reduced, and less power is achieved. If the spark fires BTDC (which it should) when the fuel combusts the energy released forces the piston down on the power stroke at maximum compression. By altering the ignition timing, you can control where the pistion is when the fuel combusts.

[northwind]

Originally Posted by r4ce_e3nd

sorry to correct you northwind, but AFAIK i was told an a Belgian forum that advancing the ignition has nothing smiliar to raising compression, because you don't change any geomitry of the cilinder. but the advancing causes more fuel to burn => more heat.

I presume on your repley that you have done this modification? do you feel a big difference? as I can see on the graf, you get a lot more power in the lower rpm's, does that effect your driving, I mean when you advance from a stop...

do you feel any difference when you get 95 in stead of 98 fuel?

You're quite right. The mechanical effect is totally different, but the impact on the risk of pinging is similiar. This is a bit hazey, but I think it's to do with the pressure in the cylinder- much like turbo and supercharger boost, which can also cause detonation conditions. I don't know why it happens to be totally honest, I'm not good with the theory

But with regard to the results, it's very noticable in the low revs. I'm skeptical about whether it made any difference up top, but the difference in the lower range is very noticable. It suits the way I ride- I tend to ride the midrange a lot day to day, so the extra torque is very welcome. I can't remember if I already said, but they say that with a more tuned engine, less advance is better than more for peak power. Apparently the advancer will now be costing me a horsepower or two at peak- but for the benefit in the midrange, that's more than worth it IMO.

If I got a new SV, I'd do the cam swap and ignition advancer before the cheque had cleared

[northwind]

Oh yeah, you asked about the octanes... I always use premium when it's available, so I can't really compare properly. The only time I use standard, it tends to be from dodgier petrol stations

thanks for the response.

i think i'll go for one too...

but i will make it myself if i can still find the dimentions of the key. i found them on a American forum (www.socalsvrider.org) if i remember... that will save me some money i think

Originally Posted by haggis

I believe it's high tensile, which is a bit harder to track down as a pattern part.

However - suggestion.....

As I too would be doing this mod at some point, how about we get one between us? Is that three folk so far? Possibly more. £10 each isn't so bad. The gasket is a whopping fiver and woodruff key erm, £15 or something.

Maybe even sell it on ebay at the end and we're quids in. It's not likely you'll need it again.

I'm going to order the key at the end of the month when I get paid and I'll try and source the bolt. What is the gasket mentioned above?

part no. 11483-19F00
the magneto cover gasket

Originally Posted by haggis

part no. 11483-19F00
the magneto cover gasket

Cheers matey. Why do I need a new one? Is it a better one? Sorry for my n00b questions. How much do they cost from Suzuki?