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#21 |
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you may find that the fueling on the standard ECU is having a little trouble with the restriction washers, somewhere with a yoshi box or similar should be able to re-map the stock ECU if this is the case.
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#22 | |
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#23 |
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I had my bike restricted from new. Its off now though so here is what I know.
A restricted pointy shouldnt feel "unsmooth". The only problem is that from about 7,000rpm onwards there is no grunt. I think full injection warning is coming up due to them messing about with the fuel inlets. As for the throttle stop and washers, that sounds a bit weird! Ive got the 33bhp ECU sitting at home. Its a plug and play jobbie and should take 5 minutes to derestrict the bike. I hope you didnt pay anymore than £70 to restrict the bike, if you did, they have ripped you off! |
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#24 | |
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The reason inlet washers work on carbed bikes is, they restrict airflow..which restricts the amount your slider lifts...which restricts the amount of fuel vapour drawn out of the bowl. A hole drilled in the slider as per factory restricted bandits etc does a similar thing. On the FI sv, you have a double butterfly valve arrangement...the first set is controlled by the throttle. The fuel and secondary butterflys are controlled by the (restricted) ecu, limiting fuel and air intake. On a full power ecu with inlet washers all your doing is restricting airflow...afaik the sv doesnt have a MAP/MAF(manifold air pressure/flow) sensor so the ecu cant adjust that much for fuelling. Maybe the throttle stop helps here......maybe not. The only thing the FIM route does is it gives you a recognised certificate of restriction. However if you were to get a restricted ecu(part no: mgt 061 for 33bhp/mgt 060 for full power) I would wager any suzuki dealership would give you a cert saying its restricted. It might be an idea to bang the bike on a dyno and it'll tell you exactly what its doing.... f/a mix and hp. If everything is fine then good...you have a cert, a restricted bike, and a full power ecu for later. If not you can then go back to the shop with your dyno printout and say...its crap, take it off...I want an ecu. Whats a quick dyno run cost with no extra tuning..20/30 bob? That'd be my first move....... |
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#25 |
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I don't see how a dealer would go to the trouble of adding parts when all you need is to plug in the ECU.
![]() Take the ECU out from under the seat and check those numbers that jamesobrady gave you, they're on the side of the ECU. If its the full power one then you know its restricted in some other way! mgt 061 for 33bhp mgt 060 for full power
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#26 |
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My restricted K4 didn't feel any different to the unrestricted one. Only whenm you get to about 7000rpm and higher speeds does it get noticeable. The restricted bike wasn't noticeably slower to accelerate up to legal speeds, but struggles to get past an indicated 100, which an unrestricted bike will easily shoot past that.
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#27 | |
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FIM(FMI?) are the most known/reputable(only?) people making 33bhp restriction kits for sale to trade. If you're gonna restrict a carbed bike, chances are they have a kit for it. As i posted earlier....putting washers in the inlet of an fi bike to my mind will tend to make it run rich, but i could be wrong, perhaps the throttle stop helps avoid it getting too rich. Its def far easier/quicker/easier on the engine to just change the ecu, but if the guy who did the job didn't know that...well....... As i said, my advice would be to call the dealer and explain what you've learned and see what he says, and if he thinks its the same thing then bring it to the dyno to check if he's right. He might be..he might not.... |
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#28 | |
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#29 |
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i am glad in the Us you can have full power from day 1 but it might be why all the idiots kill them selfs within the first year
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#30 |
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Check Carbontek for a free dyno run on Saturday morning. It's near you.
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