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#301 |
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cool, will I need to scrape the old sealant off? And do you know how long it takes to set until I can run the engine again?
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#302 |
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Resealed the clutch cover. Snapped the ****ing rubber ring thing though while trying to clean it...ah well more sealant. I'm sure my torque wrench doesn't work I set it to 10nm but it just kept going until it got to the point I was scared I'd strip the threads.
Anyhoo, I was wrong there is a rubber oring on the filler cap I'll have to try get a replacement. There was also a lot of white gunge round it from moisture and oil mixing...is this right in an engine? Could do with someone helping me find the flasher unit - can't find it anywhere! And it aint mentioned in the manuals Cheers Dave
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#303 |
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Dave,
Why are you buggerising (another technical term) around with silicon? Is there anything preventing the installation of real gaskets? If you must build silicon gaskets, don't tighten them up straight away. Either let the (even) bead go off before fitting the cover (it'll squeeze down into the join) or let stand for 20-30min, fit, but pull it down just short of the silicon squeezing out of the join, allow to stand overnight then tighten. This gives the "gasket" a bit of substance and helps to avoid squeezing it out of the join and into the motor. Cheers |
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#304 | |
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#305 |
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Matt do you know how long I should leave it before putting oil back in/ starting the bike?
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#306 |
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I usually like to leave these things overnight.
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#307 |
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Cheers mate, will do!
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#308 |
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Overnight is a good idea, i think the heat of the engine will help complete the curing process aswell.
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#309 |
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Found the final leak, gonna be a pain in the ****:- mid gasket on the rear cylinder. I think it was there before...might just ignore it
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#310 |
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I want a new bike
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