Fork spring replacement.

Take Your Forks To K Tech In Coalville For A Full Service That Includes New Springs And Oil To Suit Your Weight And Riding Style

I'm going to be putting in some progressives this weekend Has anyone done a guide for the SV at all? I'm sure it's easy, but it's always nice to know you're doing the right thing

[yorkie_chris]

It's easy.

Crack fork top bolts, remove forks, dump out old stuff, put in new, put forks back in.

On the curvy it's dead simple, pointy is a little harder as you need a big allen bit to get the front wheel out.

Originally Posted by gazza

Take Your Forks To K Tech In Coalville For A Full Service That Includes New Springs And Oil To Suit Your Weight And Riding Style

Why have I never heard of this place before considering I only live 10 minutes away from Coalville!
Any idea how much they charge for it?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

It's easy.

Crack fork top bolts, remove forks, dump out old stuff, put in new, put forks back in.

On the curvy it's dead simple, pointy is a little harder as you need a big allen bit to get the front wheel out.

Fork top bolts?

[yorkie_chris]

The things on top of the forks... Fork caps maybe, whatever you call them!

What years your bike?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

The things on top of the forks... Fork caps maybe, whatever you call them!

What years your bike?

K6. None of this curvy nonsense
Yeah I think I know what you mean. I'm not mechanically inept so I'd imagine it won't be too difficult. You just use a ruler for the spacing?

[yorkie_chris]

Yup put your fingers round the correct measurement and use it like a dipstick, helps if you have someone to hold the fork leg up for you while you do it.

Cool I'll try to take a few pics as I do it to create a guide for anyone else.

You'll most likely find that both Hagon and Ohlins are made in the same factory, Nitron and all the others as well. It's just a name on a packet. A spring is a spring, the only difference is the rate at which a spring works. As for oil it personal choice, I've always found 15wt oil is a wrist breaker round town and on most roads in the UK and I'm a fat git! I use 10wt most of the time and sometimes ATF fluid, that's about 7.5wt, it foams less than fork oil and is way cheaper. All the oil does is to stop the spring from bouncing up and down uncontrollably and depending how much you wanna spend on shocks then it can be changed to allow the spring to travel faster in one direction than another. Progressives are usually better for road use as the allow softer bumps to be absorbed by the tighter coils and make riding easier, downside is they become springbound easier. Linear have a constant spring rate which never alters, easier to use for race and track as the rebound/compression rate of the spring is constant so the tech guys know how to valve them better.

Also use the oil level given by Hagon, it's a far more accurate way of setting the oil content of each leg, Use a clothes peg and a knitting needle or welding rod or chopped up wire coat hanger whatever is availiable to get the level. You local Chemist will have some huge syringes in to remove any overfill, you get funny looks when you tell them what it's for, then you'll just need a bit of tube for it to reach the oil.