No Indicators

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by sunshine

if it uses a 15 amp fuse the cable should last longer than the fuse so you would need the 17 amp stuff.

So yc it should be on a 5amp fuse with 0.5mm cable then

You can bend that rule a little IMO, since fuse will blow a lot faster than the wire will burn.
Obviously 2A signal wire on a 50A fuse is a bad idea though.

Have you actually isolated the problem yet then?

No- I'm going to test the wiring on the RHS indicator and also the wiring from the switch to the block. It seemed to be around the block that was the issue- just not sure if it's the wiring between the switch and the block or the block and the next block behind the dash. (hope this makes sense!).

It seems more likely to be the wiring between the switch and the block. But I'll find out later... (at work atm)

Right. Had another go tonight.

First problem- the outer sleeving on the RHS front indicator was split- as was the insulation around each wire. Taped them off. A fuse still blew.

Got the switchgear off- tested the continuity from terminal to block- fine. Got the connectors on the block out and gave them a quick file and cleaned the lot with contact cleaner.

Got it back together.

The indicators work with the engine off.

The indicators work with the engine on, lights on and idling.

The indicators stop when the revs above idle. But fuses seem to have stopped blowing.

So I'm now thinking there's a short somewhere between the connector block I've checked and the next part of the loom- I think this has been opened up before, when my dash failed. I'll have a look at that, probably tomorrow and if not, it'll have to go and see Spanner Man again.

sounds weird, if its blowing at revs i would of said a cable is vibrating and touching a metal part somewhere but im not sure if th at would happen.

Are they standard indi's or aftermarket? how are they attached to loom? some people just twist the wires together to connect them, (very bad practice) and they can come loose and when you rev the cable touches something metal and then it earths and shorts out blowing the fuse. nice theory want to go check tonight?

check for nicks in the cable touching something, metal other than that im out of answers.

They're standard indicators- connect via a plug- I assume this is standard wiring. Looks that way. It looks like someone had nicked the wiring with a pair of cutters (pic will follow).

The wiring above the headlights has been opened before (previous mechanic fixed something there when the dash went last year- I'm hoping they weren't setting themselves up for more lucrative loom repairs- probably not)- I'm going to open that up next and have a look- I think the wiring from the switchgear meets the lighting part of the loom around there- so will be checking/cleaning all of the plugs (new can of switch cleaner there- is going to get well used!) and seeing if any more wires have stripped insulation anwhere.

I'm coming down with a cold at just the wrong time- feeling rather unmotivated! Will be stripping all fairing from the bike tonight for starters so I can check all of the loom where it runs along the Frame and so on.

Also, I stripped down the indicator switch yesterday and completely cleaned it- but I've either got rid of some graphite lubricant (just looked like grime to me) or I need to check the assembly again, as it's not sprining back into place properly. Should the switch components be lubed?

Ta for all help and advice (also to Spanner Man who gave me more useful info on the blower yesterday). Will keep you posted!

Make sure you havent over tightned the screw which holds the slider switch in place to tightly that could stop it from moving back and quick spray / grease wont hurt it.

Could be that- but I did back it off a little when reassembling.

It's worst when the casing is fully tightened, so I'll have to have a look at where the wire is threaded- it's all a bit tight in there.

You won't believe this...

it wasnt plugged in?

You didnt have the ignition on ?

Not that bad- I ain't THAT daft.

Often!

No- the first thing I did, before removing a single panel, was to put the original Diode/Relay box back in. Just out of sheer curiousity, not expecting it to make a jot of difference.

I have discovered that Bandit diode boxes are not compatible with SVs. It seems that Wemoto may have sent me the wrong part. I initially went with it because I thought "Hmmm- Bandit part, SV part- both perform the same function. They fit the same. So it'll work...". Apparently not!

I will be in touch with Wemoto- see if I can get it back to them and the money returned (worth a go!).

Incidentally- the siff (oo-er) switch issue was me. The wires weren't routed around the switch right, so the switch wasn't seated proply. Thought that was likely the case.

So- having done the happy dance (possibly prematurely at the time!) and taken her for a spin to Boxhill and back (some nice Ducatis and an E-Type Jag with the hood up- gorgeous!)-

Houston, we have bike!


So- Spanner Man- I may not be seeing you with more work for a bit longer (until next month, when she throws something else up!)- but I'll stop by for a cuppa soon so yourself and Wild Bill can have a giggle at my expense!

But above all- I've learned some things and feel more confident about going into the electrics in the future. So all's well!

It was wierd getting used to it again after borrowing my Bro's CBR400 for the last week or so!