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Old 23-07-07, 03:46 PM   #31
Lozzo
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

Snake oils
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Old 23-07-07, 03:54 PM   #32
northwind
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

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Snake oils
Aye, but what's oil made out of? Dinosaurs. And dinosaurs are reptiles, just like snakes. So snake oil is probably the ideal product, plus it's renewable.
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Old 24-07-07, 06:08 PM   #33
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

thanks for all the replys
i will probably get a oem filter and the castrol oil this weekend, as for the brake fluid and coolant i will do that at a bit later date
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Old 24-07-07, 08:53 PM   #34
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

Looked at that ZX1 site.

Smells a lot of Activ8 to me, especially the claim "Easily and effectively demonstrated with the Portable Lubricity Tester" which is the standard magic demostration method for those chlorinated additives.

In fact, search back on the "Activ8" topic and lo, there it is

General Remarks on Chlorinated Additives.
A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-
1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.
2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)
3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.
4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.
5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.


DON'T TOUCH IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 24-07-07, 09:33 PM   #35
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

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I use cheap halfwords 10w40 and the filters they sell off the shelf. Oil is oil if you ask me...
That is not so. To try and increase effeciency some car oils have low shear resistance and are just not suitable for bike engines, especially when the transmission uses the engine oil as a lubricant as well.

It seem unlikely but true. Bike engines/transmissions can break down poor oils in less than 1000 miles. Also if your thermostat is faulty the same applies, combine the two and you have a serious problem.

Tim
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Old 25-07-07, 09:28 AM   #36
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

Ooh I love a good Tribology thread. Guarenteed laughs and cringes.
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Old 25-07-07, 05:33 PM   #37
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Embee thats industry throwing a spanner in the works. The old chlorinated parrafins have been modified to stop them corroding the new stuff is safe. This guy used it in his diesel car and has done 197,000 miles and its still ok.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...t=55112&page=3

Scroll down to STI Tim
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Old 25-07-07, 05:38 PM   #38
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

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Originally Posted by RhythmJunkie View Post
Embee thats industry throwing a spanner in the works. The old chlorinated parrafins have been modified to stop them corroding the new stuff is safe. This guy used it in his diesel car and has done 197,000 miles and its still ok.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...t=55112&page=3

Scroll down to STI Tim
So that's one guy with an MG Rover versus the industry? I know who'll get my vote.

The old 2.0 perkins derived Rover TD motor will run forever on nothing more than a diet of peanuts, beer and crushed up Embassy No. 1 - plus

"They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures"

Rover 2.0 is made of 90% cast iron, which isn't a copper based alloy...
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Old 25-07-07, 06:13 PM   #39
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

Thats the point innit dude how much copper is there in a modern bike engine?

Its like saying that there's formaldehide in cigarette smoke which makes it dangerous, yes there is, but in such minute quantities that you get more from digesting a salad sandwich than you do from a whole pack of cigarettes. Everything is relative!
How do you prove anything is good or bad, you can only listen to Experts but some of those experts get bought by the industry to protect their sales, they have been known to be rather greedy you know!

Mankind only moves forward by spatial thinking and taking a chance. Ever seen this site?
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Nutter or guru you decide! I find his work fascinating.
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Old 25-07-07, 06:21 PM   #40
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Default Re: which oil and filter?

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Originally Posted by RhythmJunkie View Post
you can only listen to Experts
One guy with an MG Rover hardly counts as an expert. I mean, Christ almighty... It's a bloody MG Rover.
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