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#41 |
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Cheers Ophic- due to lack of clamps and confidence that I'll get it right, I think I'd rather hand it to someone else to do. At least if they get it wrong, I've got some comeback!
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#42 |
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I fixed mine this way after a very hard knock - this must have been about 10 years ago. It hasn't come apart yet and its had a few more knocks!
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Silver SV650SK3, Fuel exhaust |
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#43 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: going up Camborne hill coming down
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not heard of using araldite before (I'll keep it mind for next time), I have done a few with white glue tho.
For touching up the finish, I've heard superglue does a good job on small dings and hairlines.
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Was: Red curvy S: crash bungs, double bubble screen, fenda extenda, HEL front lines, OEM belly pan Now: Blue FZ6 Fazer |
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#44 |
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white glue? is that the PVA stuff? its really not that strong. For normal gluing of wood i'd recommend a powdered resin glue, such as Cascamite. That stuff really doesn't come apart. But for getting glue deep into a crack, epoxy and a hairdryer is best method i've ever used.
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#45 | |
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Really good stuff and has been round for years. Super hard and easily finished too, not bad for a milk based glue ![]() Theres now an EVA pased wood glue that expands just like "crazy foam" too that seems to be the joinery choice at the moment. Last edited by speedplay; 12-11-09 at 11:29 AM. |
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#46 |
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milk? so is "powdered resin" a posh way of saying "evaporated milk"?
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#47 |
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#48 |
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apparently its urea formaldehyde. I believe that's closer to wee than milk
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#49 |
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#50 |
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might be a cheap way of making it whiter, so it shows up less against light woods. Otherwise its a sort of yellowy colour when dry.
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