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#41 | |
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![]() Blipping isn't necessary, it just matches engine speed to the back wheel. The clutch performs a similar function in a less elegant and efficient manner. Practise it, because it's cool, but it isn't really important you do it. Next time you're out, try only braking, changing gear, cornering or accelerating at any one time. Leave enough time to fit each of those vital elements into each hazard/corner/whatever in discrete sections, rather than a hurried muddle. Don't worry about being slower. Speed will come in it's own time. |
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#42 | |
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#43 | ||
Noisy Git
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Moses on here is IAM guy and does not mess about, rides a messed about with FZ1 at a decent clip. Hardly pipe and slippers ![]() Quote:
Smooth fluid progress. Hugely important thing to achieve, especially on such a poorly suspended bike as the SV. So you're using the gearbox to slow you down (WITH throttle blipping, clutch is too slow and wears components needlessly). Which results in you arriving at the corner at the correct speed, at the correct rpm to accelerate out of the corner when you can see it is clear. Perfection, yes? Now do the exact same thing but use the front brake. Once you've recalibrated your brain for your braking point which is now 100yards closer and have figured out how to do this smoothly the actual cost in terms of the attention you're using to do it is next to nothing. I think first thing to get your head around as a newbie is smooth downshifting WITH blipping. Using the clutch takes bloody ages and far too much attention to do it smoothly, and the gears go CLACK without the blip to take the strain off. Do it on a smooth road in middle of nowhere first, then try it well before corners, then move closer and closer to corner until you are finding yourself in the right place at the right rpm.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 23-05-10 at 08:11 AM. |
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#44 |
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Further to what Chris said, I'd have to say that using the brakes to adjust your speed is more in line with the principles of the system of vehicle control - if you take the process as written, you should adjust position first (if required), adjust speed (based on the golden rule of being able to stop in the distance you can see) then select a suitable gear for your new speed which allows you to maintain proper control in the corner and accelerate towards the next if the situation allows.
Something else that would appeal in these troubled times, of course - brake pads are much cheaper than clutch plates ![]() |
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#45 |
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did my iam last year and enjoyed most of it. i can see as to why its not everyones cup of tea. every observer will instruct you how to ride that suits them, you'll learn something one weekend , practice it through the week then told on sunday morning ''you don't wanna bother with that''. for that reason i found it very frustrating. but hey after 3/4 observed rides i settled and took what i considered to be the best advice i got from all observers and became very confident in the group to the point where no criticms could be made at the end of a 2hr ride.
yeah there are bmws and i.a.m better than you, but theres also gsxrs and triumphs etc. go along and make up your own mind. but if you go for it stick with it, you will benefit. Last edited by Gene genie; 23-05-10 at 08:45 AM. |
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#46 | |
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![]() For me, first thing is for the OP to try and untangle himself on his corner entry, from his post it appears he's trying to do everything at the same time. Blipping can be learned at a steady pace, and will naturally be incorporated into his style when he gets smooth and comfortable. It's an important improvement, but not vital to learn straight away! |
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#47 |
Trinity
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Lozzo, I think you would enjoy my local group, oh, and for the record I am a boring accountant
![]() YC Brakes are for slow, gears are for go - glad to see you're learning the IAM way (of braking for corners ![]() *s1000RR - tested at Silverstone - great bike. |
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#48 | |
Noisy Git
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I advocate using the gears and adding in brakes if needed. Best way to ensure you've got the engine in its most responsive range of revs when you need it. You're not on about that daft ar$e-about face block shifting thing are you?
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#49 |
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As a general rule you should be slowing and then changing gear to bring the revs back up to where you need them to be to deal with whatever you have slowed for. Those that change gear taking the revs above where they need them, and then allow the bike to slow to the desired speed are usually considered to be out of system. There is obviously some flexibility but that's a fair guideline as to what the IAM are looking for.
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#50 |
Noisy Git
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So they want you to drop out of the power for no reason? I don't get why that would be a good idea... unless you were keeping revs low to avoid the back skipping because you're braking very hard. But I doubt that enters into an IAMs mind much...
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