Horn Problems

[TimTucker]

Those instructions are great.

If you have a single horn and decide to mount it as show, do you know if the original horn connector wires will reach that far when re-routed? Or will they have to extended?

[TimTucker]

There were a one or two people who had mentioned trying to relocate their existing horn, so I thought I would post up my experiences of fitting a new FIAMM horn I'd bought from Halfords. You could do the same thing for the existing horn. It won't improve the noise, but at least it should stop cutting out when hot. I commute in London, a 20-25 minute journey when I never get higher than third, and the horn simply stops working. I'd tried bending it away from the rad as much as possible, but it didn't make any difference.

Using the fitting instructions from Rictus (?) on the main site as my guide, I managed to fit the new horn above the radiator, using its nearside mounting peg and hidden inside the fairing panel. Sorry, but I don't have any photos.

Apart from the horn, which cost a tenner, I visited a Maplins store and got cable ties, male and female insulated spade connectors (product codes JH90X and JH82D respectively) and a metre of 10A twin-core power cable (XS71N) to extend the existing horn cable, which isn't long enough.

1. Unbolt the bottom mounting bolt for the radiator, swing it out and remove both the original horn and its mounting bracket.

2. Remove the seat, lift the tank and take off the top from the air filter, as this will give you better access to the wiring, which is blocked by the snorkel. You should now be able to pull the horn connector up into the space behind the headstock.

3. Now remove the other, higher mounting bolt for the radiator on the offside and gently slide it off the nearside mounting peg and let it rest on the front cylinder head.

4. The problem I now had is that the holes in both the bracket that came with the FIAMM horn -- and the one for the original horn -- were too small to fit on the mounting peg, so I had to nip down to the shops and get a round file to widen it. Make sure you bend the bracket enough that it won't foul the forks on full left lock.

5. You'll need 15-20 cm of the power cable to extend the horn cable. Put two male connectors on one end (separating the wires into separate parts for a couple of cm), which will go into the original horn connector, and two female connectors onto the other, for connecting to the horn itself.

6. Thread the cable from where the new horn mounting will be, through the frame to behind the headstock and connect to the original horn connector. Give 'em quick spray of WD-40 for good luck.

7. Put the horn mounting bracket onto the radiator mounting peg, then remount the radiator. This is a little awkward for one person to do, so if you have another pair of hands available, now is the time they will come in useful. Re-attach all the bolts, but don't do them up to full tightness, just in case something goes wrong and you need to get the radiator off again.

8. Mount the horn to the bracket, attach the connectors and lovingly bless with WD-40.

9. Switch on the ignition and test the horn. If you have a single FIAMM like I have (the high tone one, I think), this will allow you a first opportunity to marvel at how much like a car your bike now sounds!

10. If everything is OK, tighten the radiator bolts, cable tie the extension wires to the bracket so they can't foul the forks, tidy up the cabling behind the headstock, re-fit the lid of the airbox, drop the tank back down and refit the seat. And that's it, you're done.

If anyone has any further questions on this, please feel free to PM me.

Right then,
Bought the twin pack of stebel magnums, fitted them with a 'more knowledgeable' mate.

One attatched to left side fairing mounting bracket, one on right side using the radiator mounting - both out of view nicely, tucked into the sides of the fairing.

They work absolutely fine without using the relay. Mate convinced not req, I'm not so sure.

Question:
what does this damn relay thing actually do?
and
what am I risking happening without it in the loop?

Further info - they're louder with the engine running, lights flicker a bit when I hit the button.

oh....and they're hilariously LOUD

neighbours are lovin' it :P

[dirtydog]

I fitted one of the Steibel horns on my naked curvy, I just used the original wires and have had no problems with it at all. Mounted it on the side of the radiator

The twin pack comes with the relay in the box

-which indicates to me it should be used-

but it works without it..........

[Luckypants]

Well they will work for a while, maybe for a long while without a relay.

Originally Posted by Jools'SV Now

Question:
what does this damn relay thing actually do?

A relay uses a voltage in one circuit to switch (on or off, it depends) another circuit. They are usually used in automotive applications to allow a high current circuit to be operated using a low current switch (your horn button in this case). Any high power electrical gizmo on a bike will draw a lot of current, such as horns, auxillary lights etc.

A relay was provided in the kit as these are high power items, so should not be switched directly, but need a the relay to do it indirectly.

Originally Posted by Jools'SV Now

and
what am I risking happening without it in the loop?

Wiring the horns directly to the original wiring will overload the circuit, cos:-

a) Each horn is WAY louder than stock, hence is more powerful and so draws more current
b) There are two of them!

The risk of overloading the wiring is that it will heat up and melt. Not likely to happen with a short toot, but give someone a good blast and you could be in trouble. This could mean that you get wires melting, the switch heating up and catching fire, insulation breaking down leading to a short circuit, possible electric shock from the switch etc. Believe me, the current a bike battery can deliver could do serious harm if you get a good jolt.

So, use the original wiring to connect the relay for switching and wire a new circuit direct from the battery to the horns, via the relay. It really is quite easy and loads safer.

meltdown sounds bad.....

time for a rewire

esp now I'm using it more 'cos it's so loud it makes me laugh everytime.