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#51 | |
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But its DC? Thought you were going for AC If you don't know a drive with a 240v input will put out 110v or 240v out in a 3 phase simulation. I didn't understand this statement |
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#52 |
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The payback time compared to a 4t 125 will be huge, if it does ever break even when you factor in battery replacement.
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#53 |
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you can control a drive to output any voltage on one of the parameters. A drive works by changing the frequency into the motor and you can get motors to work off 240v and 110v sorry for the confusion.
And yes i respect the gainback time will be huge. But the price of electric compared to petrol is growing (80p equivalant to £10 for a 125). With petrol due another 3p a litre in April who knows how high fuel costs will get come the summer. This is more of a project to last me for life and considering the only servicing will be chain + brakes i can't complain. It's more of a project to see what i can build while aiming to save me money. And i project 4 batteries lasting me ~3 years so it's about £60 a year on batteries which isn't too bad where as a 125 service is £89 (or about £12 in oil + washer for sump). It's also built for fun not just economy. Last edited by thefallenangel; 23-03-10 at 05:15 PM. |
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#54 |
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You should just get an old milk float off ebay, ready built rolling chassis, then work on lightening and improving it
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#55 |
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Yewhat?
CG engine is meant to be something like API SE grade, which chip fat practically exceeds. It's basically a lawnmower...
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#56 | |
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#57 | |
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But i'm looking upon this as more of a practical project rather than a money saving idea. |
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#58 | |
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My old 125 and my Honda Cub used to use cheap car oil until I found out about friction modifiers, with no ill effects. Cheapest was Motorway 20/50, £2 per litre. And they have a very small capacity sump. Cub is 0.6l, CG 0.9l. I think what he means is you can treat these engines a lot worse than a proper bike engine and they won't notice. |
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#59 |
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Yup. They're so simple and understressed they don't need the same attention.
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