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#51 |
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I was just quoted £900 exc. vat for a GSXR1100 front end (gold).
![]() Don't forget the R1 needs a custom top yolk made. That'll be expensive. |
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#52 |
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How can somebody who uses the cheapest oil afford £900- for a USD front end?
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#53 | |
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![]() ![]() Andrew, also don't forget that when you have finished mincing about with your shock and forks you will then need to get a decent set of rear sets (pegs) as the stock SV ones will have you sliding your pride and joy up the tarmac (just like Tim!) oh yeah, don't go for the riser plates either, you'll be glad of fixed pegs when you do chuck it down the road and the SV soft as sh*te hangers snap a lil too easy. your going to need to get that gixer shock re-sprung and re-valved for the bike and your weight too.. goto K-Tech and not Racetech they are better in imho. Pete |
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#54 |
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Trip down memory lane.....
isn't that you Tim with me up your ****??? ![]() I still have not got that toe slider off! the screws are all metled and won't budge.. ![]() now boys and girls, the next step for you guys.. ![]() I do miss the SV tho.. |
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#55 | |
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#56 | |
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#57 |
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I've tried to post this about 3 times but my PC keeps on breaking down, so I'll break it up a little.
1) Unless you thrash your bike you musty be half mad to want to swap your forks, UNLESS it's for pure bling. There's cheaper and easier ways to get great front end performance- Traxxion just launched a fully adjustable drop-in cartridge (not emulator but true cartridge) kit for the older SV, $999US- £600 plus duties, which will not be small. They were talking about a cheaper version without external adjustment, but I've not seen a price. SV stock brakes can be made damn good with lines, HH pads, and if you're still not happy the Brembo master cylinder from off a Duke.
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#58 |
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2) It's not the case that you'll definately need to revalve/rebuild either a front end or a rear shock. Most people fitting 636 or GSXR SRAD shocks ride them as stock. For best results or if you're, ahem, larger, it becomes a very good idea but don't assume that it has to be done. On the other hand, don't asume you won't want it- if I do go for one of the front end swaps, I'm going to budget for a ktech rebuild (plus I'd want titanium nitrided stanchions, as I am not merely a tart, I'm THE tart.
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#59 |
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TiN front stanchions?
Yeah you are THE tart. ![]() What about wave discs? |
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#60 |
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3) Specific to R1 forks. Usual "I've not done it meself" disclaimer applies.
R1 forks fit into GSXR SRAD triples/yokes. This may need a little machining, or may not, there's a little disagreement on the subject. Most say not. This should also mean that they fit into more recent GSXR triples for USD forks- at least, Zoran (TWF) reckons so and he knows more about SVs than I don't know. But SRAD yokes are considered best for compatability. R1 yokes fit but incredibly badly- steering lock locks pointing straight forward and the clip-ons hit the tank, so Just Say No. Plus they look awful. R1 clipons are too short for SV controls. So... You need R1 99-01 forks, brakes, GSXR triples (SRAD for preference) and clip-ons. You can reuse SV controls, they're mostly the same as SRAD controls anyway. You may need new brake lines, but I think not- you will almost certainly need Yam spec bolts though. And mudguard ![]() For either version you need an R1 axle, if you want to keep the SV wheel then you'll need a sacrificial SV axle too. If you want the SV wheel, you need a custom built axle and spacer set. You'll need to space the SV discs to fit the R1 calipers. Speedo drive goes on the front as usual. If you want the R1 wheel, you'll need to put the speedo on the rear, and you'll need an R1 front wheel. They're a very good linkeness for SV wheels though so after powdercoating they'll match up very well. R1 tyre is a different fitment to the SV- 120/70 17 IIRC. BUT... Rear speedo is a great trick but of the 10 or so SVRiders I've seen use it since it was posted there, 3 have had it fail inside a thousand miles. Whether it's fitting error or problems with the basic idea, I don't know. And it makes sense ot budget for reworking the front end to suit the SV and you. Phew... I'm considering it, maybe. If I should knacker the front end I'll certainly give it a crack. But as with half the stuff I do I consider it a mod for its own sake, and I seriously doubt it's worth doing when compared to the more simple alternatives. Plus you will need to be pretty handy to make it work, or have deep pockets. With good advice I'm sure I could do it, or most of- probably need pros to fit the bearing and to machine the yokes if they need it.
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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