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#61 |
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Has anyone tested the voltage at the controller (boths grips off and on)? Sounds like its got some kind of voltage monitoring circuit which cuts off if the voltage is low.
If you are pulling power from somewhere up front, there could already be a significant voltage drop from all the existing wiring and therefore the extra load of the grips might drop the voltage low enought for it to cut out. If so, a direct (fused ![]() Just a thought! |
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#62 | |
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Would it make a difference sticking the negative, rather than the positive, on a 'ignition related' circuit ?? Fitting mine soon - so helpful to know .... was going down the positive ignition circuit route |
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#63 | |
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I fitted mine directly to the battery but then I've a couple of times left it on and it's drained the battery, I keep meaning to re-wire it up off a relay to the Fuel Pump relay[1] but never got around to it. Druid [1] On my VFR _only_ on when the engine is running.
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#64 |
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Yeah my idea wouls also need a relay so you dont run the batt flat. Its just an idea, needs someone with iffy grips and a multimeter to confirm
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#65 |
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I nicked a modern type controller (photo'd a page or so previous) off a mates bike, when I press 'on' it does nothing if I press and hold 'on', the blue light on 50% comes on for about a second or two and then goes away
![]() That mean anything to anyone?
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#66 | |
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![]() I thiink the controller unit's have a cut off thing when they detect sub 12v, start up and tick over the hot grips won't stay on for but hold it at 1.5k+ revs it'll happily sit at 100%. Would I be wrong in optimisticly thinking the problem might go away after a nice long run? (the bikes been sat for a week).
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#67 |
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Might do.
Maybe controller and charging system is fine and you just have a bad connection?
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#68 | |
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#69 |
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Resistant connection somewhere could act fairly repeatably, check charging system to rule it out.
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#70 | |
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So no one has made their own controller yet i guess from the last few posts on here??
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