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Old 23-12-05, 09:25 AM   #1
Mark_h
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Default Grunt or measure


When adjusting your chain do you tighten up the wheel-nut with a torque wrench or just do it up quite tight offering a manly grunt? When I was running around on my 125 I used a 12” adjustable spanner and just did it up “quite tight”. Now that did not seem to cause any problems, but being a bit less powerful than my SV (actually a lot less powerful than my lawnmower) there would not have been huge forces trying to twist the wheel out of line. I’m a bit more worried about either not doing it up tight enough or over compensating and stripping/cracking various important bits that keep me upright.

So, couple of questions.
1) Do most of you use a torque wrench or just big spanner and intuition.
2) Not sure if the spindle nut is 22 or 23mm. My socket set does not go big enough and I will need to buy the extra socket individually if I go for the torque wrench option.

And as a complete aside, I have read several good reviews about the carbon can co cans. Before I bite the bullet and send them my money has anyone got any good reasons not to get one? I’m assuming they have not suddenly taken a huge drop in quality, and as I can currently get one for 117 delivered to my door sounds like too good a deal to miss.

Cheers
Mark
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Old 23-12-05, 09:39 AM   #2
jonboy
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You'll need a breaker bar to undo it and the same to retighten. I don't think the torque setting is critical just make sure it's bloody tight. I've certainly never had a problem using this method.

On the curvy it's a 22mm nut, but not sure about the pointy.


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Old 23-12-05, 09:41 AM   #3
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i have a torque rench but i just do it up tight, (thats how most dealers will do it) but of you have a torque rench it wouldn't hurt
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Old 23-12-05, 10:20 AM   #4
21QUEST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonboy
You'll need a breaker bar to undo it and the same to retighten.
Why is that? Have you got weak arms .

I have no problems using a regular ratchet and also use a Torque wrench for tightening (65Nm on the curvy). Apparently the Pointy is 100Nm .


Cheers
Ben
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Blue, mate, having read a lot of your stuff I'd say 'in your head' is unknown territory for most of us
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Old 23-12-05, 10:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonboy
You'll need a breaker bar to undo it and the same to retighten. I don't think the torque setting is critical just make sure it's bloody tight. I've certainly never had a problem using this method.

On the curvy it's a 22mm nut, but not sure about the pointy.


.
I know of someone with an ER5 that didn't need one. They put the spanner on the nut, the spanner handle on the floor and selected first gear with engine running and decided to let the bike do the work for them. Luckily they had a fair way to go before they got to the end of the garage and managed to brake in time.
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Old 23-12-05, 10:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 21QUEST
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonboy
You'll need a breaker bar to undo it and the same to retighten.
Why is that? Have you got weak arms .

I have no problems using a regular ratchet and also use a Torque wrench for tightening (65Nm on the curvy). Apparently the Pointy is 100Nm .


Cheers
Ben
It's annoying because you don't seem to be able to get one torque wrench to cover the whole bike, mine only goes yp to 60Nm or so . At the mo I just use the spanner in the tool kit and a lot of brute force.
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Old 23-12-05, 10:38 AM   #7
Ceri JC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVeeedy Gonzales
I know of someone with an ER5 that didn't need one. They put the spanner on the nut, the spanner handle on the floor and selected first gear with engine running and decided to let the bike do the work for them. Luckily they had a fair way to go before they got to the end of the garage and managed to brake in time.
Ha ha! That is a classic
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Old 23-12-05, 10:38 AM   #8
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I use the torque wrench being as I've got one.
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Old 23-12-05, 10:51 AM   #9
Viney
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Tourque wrench. 65nm Too tight and you will kill the bearings
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Old 23-12-05, 11:45 AM   #10
embee
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Things ought to be tightened to the right sort of figure, that's the way the fastener/component system was designed to work and usually prevents stuff coming undone or damaging things.

Something like wheelnuts on cars or a rear wheel spindle on a bike are reasonably tolerant of variation, but the usual mistake is overtightening. Fasteners are just as likely to come undone if grossly overtightened as they are if not tight enough.

Do a little mental arithmetic. An average male adult type person might weigh 80kg, say, and a typical spanner/wrench for a wheelnut or spindle will be around 250mm long (from the nut to the place you hold).

80kg=800N (i.e. 10x) give or take, so all your weight on that 250mm wrench gives
800 x 0.25 = 200Nm

So about half your weight will give about 100Nm.

At least it gives you an idea of what 100Nm is really like (it's not all that much).

If you have a torque wrench that goes to , say, 60Nm, you can do it up to that, then use a normal wrench to estimate half as much again.
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