Advice on front fork springs

[Bibio]

gsxr front end conversions are easy on a pointy, much less on a curvy as the curvy needs a weird sized top stem bearing.

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by pedro3178

Thanks. I’m going to get a braze torch and some copper rods and give that a go. I’m used to doing solder work so hopefully I won’t F up my forks

get some proper liquid flux.


preparation is everything. clean the damper rods of oil. clean (grind with dremel) inside and out till you take the skin off the metal surface also make sure that the hole walls are clean by taking a drill down it. apply flux to inside and out. heat area to cherry red and start feeding rod into hole. if its done right it should flow like solder. if it wont flow then its not hot enough.


once you have the braze done dress the excess off but dont go mad at the hole point.


as embee has said its not really necessary to do and most folk find it just fine with springs and oil. with springs and oil you dont need to strip the forks right down.

[pedro3178]

Originally Posted by Bibio

get some proper liquid flux.


preparation is everything. clean the damper rods of oil. clean (grind with dremel) inside and out till you take the skin off the metal surface also make sure that the hole walls are clean by taking a drill down it. apply flux to inside and out. heat area to cherry red and start feeding rod into hole. if its done right it should flow like solder. if it wont flow then its not hot enough.


once you have the braze done dress the excess off but dont go mad at the hole point.


as embee has said its not really necessary to do and most folk find it just fine with springs and oil. with springs and oil you dont need to strip the forks right down.

Thanks for the advice, I'll order up some flux

[Grant66]

When fitting the emulators was all the rage, didn't a lot of people just use JB-weld to seal the rebound holes?

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[pedro3178]

Originally Posted by Grant66

When fitting the emulators was all the rage, didn't a lot of people just use JB-weld to seal the rebound holes?

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Top post, picture 14.

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I’ve heard about this but I’m sure it’s not recommended as it can come out

[pedro3178]

Originally Posted by Bibio

get some proper liquid flux.

Having a hard time finding this. Could you point me in the right direction please.

[garynortheast]

Originally Posted by pedro3178

I’ve heard about this but I’m sure it’s not recommended as it can come out

I used JB weld on mine when I fitted the Debrix emulators years ago. It’s still in there as firm as it was when I used it to close up the rebound damping holes. Never given me any problems.

[pedro3178]

Originally Posted by garynortheast

I used JB weld on mine when I fitted the Debrix emulators years ago. It’s still in there as firm as it was when I used it to close up the rebound damping holes. Never given me any problems.

Good to know. Might be worth a try, would save me buying a torch that I will use once. I tried local businesses but most are closed and one told me they could do it but would take a few months ( no idea on the few months part )

[garynortheast]

Originally Posted by pedro3178

Good to know. Might be worth a try, would save me buying a torch that I will use once. I tried local businesses but most are closed and one told me they could do it but would take a few months ( no idea on the few months part )

Again, as Bibio says, preparation is everything. Thorough degreasing and key the surface before applying it. I left mine to go off properly for a good 24 hours before reassembly.

[pedro3178]

Just about to start this. I just wondered, when carrying out the reassembly , is there a special tool required to seat the top bush and oil seal back into place ?