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Old 26-11-17, 07:36 PM   #1
slaked
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Default Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

Instead of going to the garage I thought this time I'll change the oil, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs myself. The final part was the front spark plug. What a ****ing game that was. I read all over the place that apparently you remove a couple of bolts and the horn and abracadabra the radiator magically pivots forward. Well I must have done something wrong because it pivoted forward about 2 inches. In the end I removed the fan from behind the radiator and the top two radiator bolts so I could move the whole thing down and out of the way.

Anyway I'm rambling now. I was putting the final bolt back in and as I turned it the last time it broke. I don't know how much of the broken bolt is sticking out from the frame into the radiator but not much I reckon maybe a mm. I'd had enough by this point so didn't take it back off to have a look. I have two questions though:

How safe is the radiator being held on just by the top right and bottom right bolts? A wise man once said two out of three aint bad but then he didn't have to deal with the potholes on my commute to work. The other two bolts are really tight and it doesn't move at all if I try to wiggle it a bit

Whats the best way of removing the broken bolt once I take the radiator back off? Bear in mind I have **** tools and it took me the best part of two days to do a two hour job.

Here's a picture of the radiator in case you didn't know what one looks like:


Last edited by slaked; 26-11-17 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 26-11-17, 09:58 PM   #2
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

You need the top bolt to stop the radiator flexing.

I know from experience (did this exact thing) if there is some bolt showing you may be lucky and able to remove it with mole grips.
If not you can centre punch the bolt, drill the bolt very carefully with a cobalt steel bit and cutting oil and retap it.
If your not happy about doing it, take it to someone to do it. It's not easy I will say that now

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Old 27-11-17, 04:01 AM   #3
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

Itll be fine until you figure out how to get it out. It's not like you broke it off into the block... all it is a jug that holds water in such a way that let's it cool faster. Just keep an eye on it.

Personally I would use dremmel with a cutting wheel and carve a narrow groove into it just big enough to get at it with a flathead screw driver. If you nick the frame no one will see it behind that flange.
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Last edited by Jacobus; 27-11-17 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 27-11-17, 08:50 AM   #4
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

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Originally Posted by Seeker View Post
It might be worthwhile buying a left handed (reverse thread) drill bit. Centre punch the exposed part of the bolt as accurately as you can and then drill into it, the action of drilling will probably unscrew the bolt for you.

I'd be wary about using a screw extractor - they are hardened and if they snap they are a major headache to remove.

Mole/vice grips are a good idea if you have sufficient thread exposed.

Sometimes when screwing a steel bolt into aluminium you get an effect called "galling" - basically the two different materials weld themselves together which may be what happened here - normally you would feel the thread tightening up before it happens, lubricating the threads before assembly will reduce the likelihood of it occurring.
Excellent advice.I have a couple of,"Left Hand" drill bits just for jobs like this.

Also you can make a super release fluid out of a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF or Acetone and Brake fluid but beware that Brake fluid can strip paint.

Also I have a cheap Butane Torch like this,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Welding-S...4AAOSwnk9Z4Rtz

These are great for jobs like this as they are ultra directional and you can apply the heat just where it's needed for getting bolts out.


PS
Tip for the future.Fit an aftermarket horn to the left front of the bike and remove the stock weedy horn and it's bracket.Then you can get to the front plug much easier and I use a bit of cardboard with some double sided tape to protect my hands and the rad fins(Don't forget to take it off when done).








Orange cable is just disc lock reminder.I use the disc lock on the rear now.


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Last edited by R1ffR4ff; 27-11-17 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 28-11-17, 10:02 AM   #5
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

I just replaced my horn with a bigger louder one - I'm a bit worried about the mudguard clearing it on full compression. Any ideas R1ffR4ff?

Mine's same as yours.
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Old 28-11-17, 10:11 AM   #6
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

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I just replaced my horn with a bigger louder one - I'm a bit worried about the mudguard clearing it on full compression. Any ideas R1ffR4ff?

Mine's same as yours.
There's no marks on top of my guard so mine hasn't grounded AFAIK.I'm not a mad fast rider but am spirited when the moment takes me<grin> and I ride some pretty rough terrain.I have some favourite ,"Goat-Tracks" I ride and some are not well kept.

If you look at mine it is angled out and away though.
I'm almost certain that the ATF in the forks has been replaced with 10w/15w fork oil as they aren't spongy and when I got my SV the rear was a little bouncy so just took up the rear shocker a notch and that cured that.The bike takes everything I can throw at it with ease with the Stock suspension.

Here's an old video I made on one of my old CX500s @ one of my favourite little spots up here called,"Millington Woods/Picnic area" not well known so not touristy but the camera doesn't show the true crappiness of some of the surface and I've ridden the SV there several times with no problem.


YouTube Video
Error: If you cannot see this video, then either YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed to play it.



https://tinyurl.com/y9ug4sgx
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Last edited by R1ffR4ff; 28-11-17 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 29-11-17, 04:13 PM   #7
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

Interesting. I see yours is naked from the pic above, mine is still a fully faired 'S' and I replaced the original with a horn like yours but in the original position. It is braking that I'm worried about - just about the last time you want to discover you've got no steering LOL!

My bike is on my ABBA stand and up on my hydraulic bench so the front forks are already a bit squashed so it's hard to see what is what. I guess I'll have to wait until my shoulder op has healed so I can heave the front end up and measure the gap.

Sorry for hijacking the thread...
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Old 29-11-17, 04:20 PM   #8
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

To the original poster: It looks to me like try the stuff above first, then use an easy-out. Your biggest problem is not being able to guarantee concentricity between the drill and the broken stud. Take the time to get the centre punching EXACTLY in the centre of the broken bolt and don't allow the drill to wander.

I used an end-mill in my pillar drill to remove a broken cam box screw on sloth86's speed triple (a common problem). it went well, but demands great concentration, good condition tools and time. use the biggest easy-out that you can get in the broken bolt to avoid breaking it off in there.

Good luck.
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Old 29-11-17, 07:28 PM   #9
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

I've just remembered that somewhere in one of my Garage drill boxes I nabbed a couple of old Ball-end drill bits from a job like these,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6X-Nitrog...cAAOSw-29ZWzDi


Well useful for making a dent in awkward broken studs as a ,"Starter" for a drilling

Also Screwfix might have something that can help,

https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/spe...ies/cat5930008
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Old 29-11-17, 07:30 PM   #10
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Default Re: Broken Radiator Bolt - SV650 1999

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Originally Posted by Blapper View Post
Interesting. I see yours is naked from the pic above, mine is still a fully faired 'S' and I replaced the original with a horn like yours but in the original position. It is braking that I'm worried about - just about the last time you want to discover you've got no steering LOL!

My bike is on my ABBA stand and up on my hydraulic bench so the front forks are already a bit squashed so it's hard to see what is what. I guess I'll have to wait until my shoulder op has healed so I can heave the front end up and measure the gap.

Sorry for hijacking the thread...
Is it possible to re-position the horn if it is impeding?
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