SV650S K6 clutch mechanism worn?

[aesmith]

Hi,
When I first got the bike I needed to adjust the clutch cable to get the correct travel, then a couple of weeks later had to do it again. I then did the full adjustment at the release mechanism and all was fine for a couple of weeks before more and more free play developed. At this stage have run out of adjustment at the bar, although there's a little still at the other end of the cable. Pushrod adjustment is correct, backed off 1/4 turn.

So something's wearing out or working loose. Suspects would be the cable, or the release mechanism. Is there anything else I should check? Also, how can I tell if the release mechanism is worn, it clearly works.

Final question - is there a trick to disconnecting the clutch cable from the release lever? The nipple turns freely, but won't move back or out, and of course there's no way of applying force or leverage to persuade it.

Ta in advance, Tony S

[aesmith]

Update, there's a bit of radial play in the release mechanism, meaning that a lot of the lever movement is used taking up that play before actually pushing the push rod. Taking it apart two of the balls were missing - not sure if that's the cause of the play, or a result. A bit of movement also between the lever and the worm that's swaged onto it.

Time for a new release mech I think. Do they often fail? The bike's only done 19,000 miles.

[Red ones]

I replaced mine about 2 or 3 weeks ago at 95,000 miles, but TBH I think it went at about 65,000ml (I dont use the clutch much as you may imagine from that). The Clutch Adjuster Mech is made of cheese.

Assuming it's the same as the curvy, to get the cable out the clutch release lever there's a metal tab bent in behind it, you need to straighten that up then the cable will slide back and out.
If you remove the release arm and unwind the middle out you will see the tracks it runs on, it's these tracks that wear. Be careful not to lose the ball bearings though, they should be captive in the outer part but if worn they may all drop out, mine all dropped out.
If it is worn then you'll need a new one, they aren't too expensive (I forget how much now) and easy to replace.

[Red ones]

They're about £45 and wear like they are made of Brie

[aesmith]

New mechanism ordered. I can see why they wear. Mine was plastered inside and out with a mixture of road grit oil and grease, presumably flung off the chain. I've been trying to think of a way to seal the bearing surfaces, but it might be just a matter of having to take the mechanism off and clean it right out a couple of times a year.

[Red ones]

You will probably find the clutch will feel a lot lighter when the new one is fitted.

[aesmith]

By the way, if I replace the clutch cable while I'm at it, is it worth paying the extra to get a genuine Suzuki cable? (Roughly £30 instead of £15).

[Bibio]

if your budget stretches to new OEM stuff then yes OEM is usually best.

[Red ones]

Normally I'd think to replace the cable first to check its not the problem, afterall it's the cheaper part. But experience suggests to me to go for the adjuster first and see.

The adjuster takes minutes to replace, but the cable takes a bit longer and is a bit of a faff.