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#1 |
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Hi guys
I have recently bouhgt a '00 SV650S in yellow - blue flame evo exhaust, lower fairings n rear hugger - It had 12000 miles, in good condition n ran beautifully (apart from 1 niggly thing). I paid £1450????? After searching through the forum i finally bought some restrictors off gazz (what a great guy and many thanks) the two washers have arrived thismorning - great with some breif instructions by gazz. However i am crap with bikes and dont want to mess up putting them in! His instructions say tankup, airbox off - washer drop on top of carb + sit on flonge (or maybe flange?) now to anyone with any bike knowledge im sure this makes perfect sense. Unfortunately im not too sure what he means because some people say the two washers go under the carbs??? Im fine doing the tank n airbox n detaching all the fuel lines n throttles etc etc, but specifically where do these washers go??? IM thinking they go b/w the outlet of the carb and the intlet of the piston/manifold (i no im using wrong terminology - sorry!) is this the case. Finally the bike has a blue flame pro evo exhaust, with at max only one baffle still in it, will this just mess my baby up??? iv heard fuel n running n backfiring problems all creep in??? I'll be so gutted if this is the case but all advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, matt Last edited by e5hughsonm; 18-08-08 at 10:25 AM. |
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#2 |
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O, n the niggly thing is the front brakes
Fluid is fine, discs are fine (just passed MOT) pads are not worn down but the brakes are seriosly spongly - as in iv just jumped off a cruiser 125 n my single pot callipers better than the SV - dot hey just need stripping and sanding n copper slipping or is there a problem - thanks again?? |
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#3 |
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When I had restriction washers for a VT500C and a Bandit 600N, they both went between the carbs and the engine block itself. This is what I'd expect, but I haven't fitted restrictors to an SV, so if in doubt contact the restriction company.
The brakes being spongy may be down to old brake fluid, air in the system, or an issue with the calipers themselves. Bleed the system through if you're happy doing this. If it doesn't help, strip and rebuild the calipers. Use red rubber grease on the piston seals, and on the sliding pins that allow the caliper to move backwards and forwards. Use copper slip only on the back of the brake pads. Jambo
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#4 |
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The washers go between the carbs and the engine, not the carbs and the airbox.
The exhaust is not going to be an issue, it is only a slip-on and will not add any power. When you run a restricted bike you must run with the OEM air filter, SV's hate having after market air filters in when the are restricted. Bleed the brakes, and check for any leaks which may have come over age. Next idea would be a caliper service. If the problem remains then I would say it is the rubber hoses which have started to blister and need replacing with either braided lines or new rubber hoses. Last edited by Dangerous Dave; 18-08-08 at 12:03 PM. |
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#5 |
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cheers thanks for the advice - will give the brakes a go see if that solves the problem. I have got as far as taking the tank up, and removing the AIRBOX (took me half an hour!) and now i am completely confused! It just looks like one big mess to be honsest. I can see the 0 ring with the screw on the end that tightens on to the manifold on the rear, but the front one just looks buried and i cant see anything. Also theres all the fuel lines, where is the fuel **** to turn it off, n i dont feel confident taking all the throttle cables n linkages off because im not sure id put them back the same. Just dont wanna mess up a bike iv only just bought thats all - any advice or shud i just put it back together and take it to a garage to do??
thanks, matt |
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#6 |
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ok so i went for round 2 - and by following a carb removal instruction set on here, it says to get to the clamp on the front carb, i need to move the radiator. So i take off all the top right fairing, disconnect indicators remove mirror and slacken off the 3 nuts to move radiator. But then theres loadza pipes goin into it - some just look like breather pipes, but some are filled will fluid n stuff. Now im sper confused, n my new baby is in a few pieces on the garage floor
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#7 |
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It's not as bad as it looks!
You don't need to disconnect the throttle or choke cables if you're only lifting the carbs out of the way to add washers. The fuel tap is automatic and opens when there's a vacuum (there are 2 pipes going from the fuel tap, the thicker one carries fuel, the thinner one connects to the rear inlet). You can disconnect any fuel pipe and you will loose only the fuel in the pipe, the fuel tap will be closed unless you run the engine or suck on that thiner pipe ![]() Both front and rear carbs mount onto the engine using a clip with a No2 Phillips screw the front needs a bit of finding, use a torch. Loosen both and pull up on the carbs, one at a time to remove them. Jambo
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