Clutch or Gearbox? Or Both?

Ok, I have a problem with either my clutch or gearbox (Sv650s (W reg) 19,000 miles).

Symptoms:
The clutch seems to slip when I wind the power on (usually when overtaking! ), yet it also creeps at the lights/junctions, especially when cold. Finally it struggles to select neutral when I come to park up.

Apparently it shouldn't creep and slip, it would do either one or the other, unless the clutch is fubar. (Is this correct?)

My diagnosis after studying a few sources is that the use of car engine oil (sorry, noob error) has ruined the clutch plates. I did about 500 miles with magnatec in it FFS.

BUT (and it's a big butt)

I've had it in a garage, where they checked the clutch and the cable and all was ok. They say they couldn't tell what the problem was without stripping the bike/gearbox down at a cost of 14 hours labour, and I should either do that or just ride it and see if it goes away.

So basically, am I correct to assume it is the clutch plates and replace them, or is there another problem that these symptoms suggest? I can't say for definite that the garage are trying to rip me off but they seemed very vague.

This is my first post (on any forum ever) so please be gentle!
Cheers, NJ.

p.s this all started a day after some f*ckers tried nicking it, I'm due some good luck!

[yorkie_chris]

Hey NJ, welcome to forums.

You don't need to strip the gearbox down, clutch slipping issues can all be dealt with without stripping the engine apart. So no 14 hour labour bill

It is rare to get creep and slip at the same time from simply an adjustment issue. Sounds like you have another issue too. Make sure the clutch is adjusted right with some play (zero play in the clutch lifter can cause slip), make sure the oil level is correct and not too high (can cause drag). After that you would need to remove the clutch cover for a gander at the clutch itself to check for a notched basket or damaged plates. You could try cleaning the plates with solvent but TBH a 10w40 oil, even a car one, should not do any damage.

Check adjustment properly (good post by sid squid on the matter if you use search)
Check oil level and report back

Welcome to the site. Sorry your 1st post is a cry for help.

Sv 'boxes are generally very good and strong unless it's been seriouly abused. How hands-on are you? Personally I would take the clutch plates out. Easy(ish) to do and look them over. I believe you can clean them off but don't know the technique. The creeping could be simply mis-adjusted clutch.

Cheers for the quick replies!

In response...

I'll definitely try taking the clutch plates out to have a look. I'm at a very early stage in my (amateur) mechanical career and i like to get stuck in, so long as there is nothing I could permanently destroy.

I'm pretty certain that the cable is adjusted properly, and the oil level (with bike oil!) is good.

I only have 6 months experience, I'd say I'm smooth on my upshifts, but could be guilty of being a bit enthusiastic on downshifts, especially coming back down Hartside

[yorkie_chris]

Things to be wary of removing clutch plates are overtightening of clutch cover and clutch spring retainer bolts, other than that it is pretty easy

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Things to be wary of removing clutch plates are overtightening of clutch cover and clutch spring retainer bolts, other than that it is pretty easy

Is there not an issue with being careful with the platic clutch cover, Chris, or have I been out of the loop too long?

Originally Posted by naj1987

Cheers for the quick replies!

No problem, they're a friendly bunch on here.

Originally Posted by naj1987

I only have 6 months experience, I'd say I'm smooth on my upshifts, but could be guilty of being a bit enthusiastic on downshifts, especially coming back down Hartside

Do you 'blip' the throttle on downshifts?

[TamSV]

I had the same symptoms on my most recently acquired curvy SV. It was dragging at a standstill with the clutch pulled in but slipping under acceleration - very strange.

I couldn't get a decent adjustment on the cable (when I got the bike the adjuster at the bar was wound right out and the cable was as tight as a guitar string) so I stripped out the worm drive (lever mechanism under the sprocket cover) and gave it a clean up. It was full of quite coarse grit.

Once I'd packed the mechanism with grease and reassembled, it was easy to readjust the cable and seems to have solved both the dragging and slipping issues. I'm still not sure why - maybe the grit wasn't allowing a full range of movement in the mechanism

It might be worth a look in your case - certainly won't do any harm and costs nowt. Take the worm drive apart over a tray or you'll be doing a forensic fingerprint search of the garage floor when the little ball bearings drop out.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

overtightening of clutch cover and clutch spring retainer bolts,

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

Is there not an issue with being careful with the platic clutch cover, Chris, or have I been out of the loop too long?

Yeah it is easy to overtighten them, better to use a drop of loctite and a very slight nip of torque. If you go mental tightening them it will leak.

Other things to consider is the clutch cable may have stretched, mine did and was a real git until I changed the cable.

My first top would be to remove the worm gear mech and clean and whilst there replace the clutch cable, about £15 last time I checked, this will iron out the two easiest tasks at minimal outlay.

oh and car oll 10w 40 semi synthetic never did my SV any harm

[Biker Biggles]

Note that clutch adjustment is not just the cable.Under the sprocket cover is an actuator(worm drive)which must be adjusted correctly before the cable.If that isnt working properly you will not get enough movement in the clutch.