Seized pad pin

Am currently trying to service my calipers, however the pad pins both on the fronts and rears are seized and will not budge.
Has anyone got any ideas on how romove them? Preferably without destroying them.

Cheers
Dan

Hope you manage to get them free.

Slightly off topic but, are there any better quality pins the crap oem ones can be replaced with...I mean a slotted screw top isn't the best thought someone ever had for these fookin pins!

Nothing worked on my rears one, had to buy a new one!

Originally Posted by beabert

Nothing worked on my rears one, had to buy a new one!

How did you manage to get it out? If I have to replace then that's fair enough, but getting it off is a good starting point

i replaced the whle lot, made a mess of it trying to get the pins out

[Biker Biggles]

Fronts can usually be got out with appropriate force/heat and plus gas and are the same for pointy and curvy,but what rear are we talking about?I assume its a curvy,and you could PM Husky who refurbishes rear curvy calipers for a very reasonable fee.

Sorry, forgot to say. It's a k7 pointy. The rear is proving most difficult atm

[andrewsmith]

I'd replacing the pins and 'r' clips if they're siezed.

Try some penetrating or realease oil and a pair on very long nose pliers and wriggle them loose, got my totally sized rears out this way and worked

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

I'd replacing the pins and 'r' clips if they're siezed.

Pointy rear caliper is different to Curvy.

There is a small slotted cover over the pad pin, before anyone says that's silly try thinking about what it does. Don't use your Meccano screwdriver consider getting one that fits properly so you won't be posting on here that Suzuki calipers are crap and you've mullahed* the cap. Now you've got an appropriate tool push it hard into the screw slot and turn it - you do know you have to push as well as turn. don't you? Is the cap tight? If it is get a suitable drift and tap it, yes - tap, there's no requirement to smack it all the way to next Wednesday - firmly. It will now be loose, yes it will, if it isn't you didn't do it right. If didn't do it right take a moment to think about what you're doing and why, then when you've got your head around it, do it properly and take the cap off.
Under the cap there is a socket headed screw, these are rarely stuck, no they're aren't, but there are a lot of crap tools around, do your tools match that description? Yes? Give up now.
Assuming you have an Allen key of a suitable size and quality try to undo the screw, it it's tight do you remember the bit about tapping above? Now would be the perfect time to refresh your memory.

Thought for the day:
Steel hard, aluminium soft**. Take a moment to consider the importance of this knowledge and how it will help you when acting on the above info.

*Do you see what I did there? Very topical I thought.
** Relatively speaking of course, diamond is harder than steel and marzipan is softer than aluminium, if this is lost on you the above process of tapping things to loosen them probably won't help.

[yorkie_chris]

Listen to the squid.

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

I'd replacing the pins and 'r' clips if they're siezed.

Try some penetrating or realease oil and a pair on very long nose pliers and wriggle them loose, got my totally sized rears out this way and worked

If you got them out by wiggling them with pliers then they weren't totally seized really were they?