Throttle cam jammed - 2002 Curvy

Hi there, I know there's probably been loads of posts about this...I recently picked up a 2002 's' and didn't ride it for 2 months due to the snow & ice here in Wales. Went for first ride and the throttle jammed open in 4th and the RH switch gear housing 'locating lug' snapped off causing the throttle to jam open and the whole mechanism to spin backwards. I've fixed the switchgear, but have checked the cables and after removing the air box housing can see that the lower cable on the throttle cam is rusted, but does flex when throttle moved. The problem is...the throttle cam is jammed completely and I haven't a clue what to do. I've soaked everything in WD40 and rust spray, but there is no movement at all. How can I get it working again? I'm pretty sure that if I remove both cables from the cam, the thing still wont budge. Do I need to strip everything or just start 'percusive' repair methods with a hammer???? Is this common? Are bearing seized somewhere? Please bear in mind that I'm not a competent mechanic and don't have loads of tools.
Need to get the bike on the road ASAFP to get back into biking after too long a break.

[Sid Squid]

Take the cables off and be sure that the carb spindle is actually stuck first before delving further. I'm sure you're right but be certain before doing work that may not be needed.
If it should prove that the spindle is stuck apply some more oil/WD/penetrant/whatever to both inner and outer ends of the spindle and gently apply force to the quadrant, there's no need to make it move all the way round at first, just get it cracked then apply more goo, move it more and then more oil.

Consider if it maybe a good idea to remove the carbs so nothing ends up dropping through the intake while you're wiggling about above them.

Normal thing on the SV is the linkage that opens the throttles on the carbs has siezed (the bar that goes down the side of the carbs).

You can try to strip them down and regrease but I've never been able to fix this issue on a set of carbs as even when they have been stripped, cleaned and regreased they become grabby and dont throttle correctly (and stick again).

Removing the carbs???? Nightmare! I've been out tonight and managed to tap the spindle back & forth slightly. I did consider removing the cables, but I can see that there's a fair bit of play in them.
There is absolutely no 'spring' back to the spindle / cam at all. I have to tap it down and gently prise it back with a lever. Is the spindle part of the carbs or is it deeper? I've been out with a torch and can't see - garage is in an outbuilding with no power...great news!
I have no idea what to do next. I can't even get the bike to a garage for someone else to look at it.
I have stripped V8 landrover carbs before, but that seemed to be by luck and guesswork rather than any degree of skill. The Haynes manual seems to do the usual 'Simply remove the .....'

Any other suggestions?
How do I manage to get at the spindle to check what's up?

You need to take the carbs off.

Tank up and airbox off first, then you need a long philips screwdriver to loosen the rubber mouths that connect the bottom of the carbs to the engine.

Rock carbs from side to side to remove.

I'd also cover the holes to the engine with rubber glove or rag so nothing can drop in.

Undo the throttle and choke cables and operate the carbs by twisting the cam they should feel under tension by the spring but open easily and shut via spring tension.

Looks like it will have to be carbs off. I've just searched on here and found a few posts with the similar problem...
This is not good as I've got no real idea what to do and don't want to bugger the bike up before I've got to use it more than twice (wife would not be chuffed).
Is the spindle part of the carbs then or lower down?
Is there anything on the other side of the carbs that could be lubed to help?
This is turning out to be a mare!
I've already got the tank up, airbox off and gloves covering the carbs. The cam is really jammed and won't move more than a couple of mm with pressure. how can I remove the spindle?

Anyone got a set of carbs for sale???

Right then,
Carbs are off - what a mare!! The front screw holding the choke plunger thing was a joke. I need to replace lots of screws etc. I've read on here that I need stainless M5 10mm allen bolts to do the job...is that right? I want to replace the two on the choke and any others that are likely to melt when touched.
I was going to buy some new carbs, but I reckon I've probably done the hard bit of getting them off the bike. Any hints and tips on cleaning and replacing parts?
The Haynes manual mentions replacing o-rings on the choke plungers and I haven't even read the rest.
I need the expert advice of you techy types as I feel like being a mechanic this week.
Do I need to take note of screw positions (not where they come from - but what position they are in...amount of turns etc) and things like that????
Any advice greatly appreciated.

Ash

[muzikill]

For a start download the official manual for your bike and use that as first reference and the haynes as a 2nd opinion . . The official manual is a lot more clearer for tricky jobs like this

Just about to have a gander at the carbs now...got the M5 bolts for everything (cost £2.00 for 10) and about to clean the whole lot.
Should the throttle cam 'spring back' once all is cleaned? Mine is still very hard to move.
Lots of photos and labels needed for this I think as don't want to forget something.

Thanks for the advice so far peeps...

[Nicky S]

im not to sure what you are talking about but is it this bit of the carbs ?