Brakes sticking.... - SV650.org

15-11-05, 09:28 PM

Alrightee all.

I used to keep my bike in my Dad's garage who lived just round the corner from me but I've recently moved, so my SV is now stuck outside.

Now I've noticed in the morning my brakes seem to stick on a little bit, enough that when I take my hand off the throttle you can feel the brakes doing their job without actually touching them. They free up after a mile or so. I just wondered if this was normal when they get damp overnight or could it be something more ???? Does anybody else's brakes stick after it's been parked in the rain and crap weather over night ??

cheers

Ash

15-11-05, 09:56 PM

It is a problem, the pins get gunged up very easily. Put aside a morning and take 'em apart give 'em a good old clean and regrease the pins, use the proper grease, get some from your dealer)

When mine were binding when I first got the bike it cost me over £100 for the dealer to sort it. It really it the easiest job in the world to do yourself (*if* the pins aren't already stuck!) I gave mine a pukka clean up when I replaced the pads... *should* get me through winter

Also see the FAQ on the main site...

Good luck

15-11-05, 09:59 PM

Ta very much..... I was planning on changing the pads / fluid at the end of Nov anyway before the MOT. Cheers, I'll have a look this weekend !!

Biker Biggles · 15-11-05, 10:00 PM

Sounds like they need cleaning.The pistons that push on the pads get covered in crud and tend to stick.You need to take the calipers off and clean the pistons with brake fluid.Then a bit of brake grease keeps them free for a while.Obviously you must not get any fluid or grease on the friction surfaces

Red ones · 18-11-05, 06:18 AM

Do check that the O rings are not trying to pop out - if they are then they need replacing - only about £18 a set, but you notice a huge difference

18-11-05, 12:32 PM

Its a simple procedure for the fronts and backs to clean.

Fronts: Remove caliper retaining bolts and remove caliper. remove pad retaining pin r clip and then pin (this probably won't be easy, since they have a tendancy to rust into place). Remove pads, and (gently) pump the pistons out about 10mm. Usually only 1 will come out if they are gunged up, don't worry. Clean the piston using brake cleaner or brake fluid, anything that is safe for rubber seals - I also used a nylon brush (or a toothbrush). Push the piston back in - you'll need to remove the cap of the fluid resevoir first, push hard with your fingers. Hold the piston in place with a block of wood and repeat with the other piston. Replace pads pins etc (put some copper grease on the pins to aid getting them out again next time, only use a bit as this is not something you want on the pads or discs at any point, also put some on the back of the pads as well to stop squeal) and remount caliper, tightening the bolts to the correct torque.

Rears are pretty much the same, except access is harder as the pistons are opposed instead of next to each other.

If the dust seals come out with the pistons, you will need to renew both it and the fluid seal, unless anyone has a good way of replacing the dust seal without removing the piston. They come in packs anyway.

It is worth doing them now before we get major salt build up, I think I did mine twice during last winter, although I now have new seals so hopefully it will be less.

MT

18-11-05, 07:08 PM

If the dust seal is atarting to distort and/or pistons are showing white rust deposits then they will need rebuilding.

Its not the seals that are the problem its the corrosion behind them pushing them out.
Cleaning the grooves out behind the seal is the most important part and make sure you get all of it and keep copper-slip away from pistons.

Seen too many calipers that people have done themselves (or even some shops

) that still bind or the dust seals pop out 6 months later, or the pistons have been pumped out and smothered in copperslip and pushed back in---- which in time the 'slip' bit disappears leaving a gungy copper mess.

I have a couple of sets of calipers that I was looking at doing on an exchange, its £80 for parts (new seals, oe pistons, new slider boots and stainless bleed nipples) so prob £100 all in

18-11-05, 11:50 PM

Just finished overhauling my calipers ... rear one was a right ******* pistons just didn't want to come out .. (I didn't pump them out on the bike though

) So used a tube of air to pop the ****ers out ... worked a treat

hopefully they should feel wicked awesome with the new lines im putting on

15-11-05, 09:28 PM	#1
ash Guest Posts: n/a	Brakes sticking.... Alrightee all. I used to keep my bike in my Dad's garage who lived just round the corner from me but I've recently moved, so my SV is now stuck outside. Now I've noticed in the morning my brakes seem to stick on a little bit, enough that when I take my hand off the throttle you can feel the brakes doing their job without actually touching them. They free up after a mile or so. I just wondered if this was normal when they get damp overnight or could it be something more ???? Does anybody else's brakes stick after it's been parked in the rain and crap weather over night ?? cheers Ash

15-11-05, 10:00 PM	#4
Biker Biggles Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Barnet Herts Posts: 5,071	Sounds like they need cleaning.The pistons that push on the pads get covered in crud and tend to stick.You need to take the calipers off and clean the pistons with brake fluid.Then a bit of brake grease keeps them free for a while.Obviously you must not get any fluid or grease on the friction surfaces __________________ On a clear day we stand there and look further than the ordinary eye can see.

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15-11-05, 09:56 PM	#2
svpilot Guest Posts: n/a	It is a problem, the pins get gunged up very easily. Put aside a morning and take 'em apart give 'em a good old clean and regrease the pins, use the proper grease, get some from your dealer) When mine were binding when I first got the bike it cost me over £100 for the dealer to sort it. It really it the easiest job in the world to do yourself (if the pins aren't already stuck!) I gave mine a pukka clean up when I replaced the pads... should get me through winter Also see the FAQ on the main site... Good luck

15-11-05, 09:59 PM	#3
ash Guest Posts: n/a	Ta very much..... I was planning on changing the pads / fluid at the end of Nov anyway before the MOT. Cheers, I'll have a look this weekend !!

18-11-05, 06:18 AM	#5
Red ones Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 1,422	Do check that the O rings are not trying to pop out - if they are then they need replacing - only about £18 a set, but you notice a huge difference

18-11-05, 12:32 PM	#6
empty Guest Posts: n/a	Its a simple procedure for the fronts and backs to clean. Fronts: Remove caliper retaining bolts and remove caliper. remove pad retaining pin r clip and then pin (this probably won't be easy, since they have a tendancy to rust into place). Remove pads, and (gently) pump the pistons out about 10mm. Usually only 1 will come out if they are gunged up, don't worry. Clean the piston using brake cleaner or brake fluid, anything that is safe for rubber seals - I also used a nylon brush (or a toothbrush). Push the piston back in - you'll need to remove the cap of the fluid resevoir first, push hard with your fingers. Hold the piston in place with a block of wood and repeat with the other piston. Replace pads pins etc (put some copper grease on the pins to aid getting them out again next time, only use a bit as this is not something you want on the pads or discs at any point, also put some on the back of the pads as well to stop squeal) and remount caliper, tightening the bolts to the correct torque. Rears are pretty much the same, except access is harder as the pistons are opposed instead of next to each other. If the dust seals come out with the pistons, you will need to renew both it and the fluid seal, unless anyone has a good way of replacing the dust seal without removing the piston. They come in packs anyway. It is worth doing them now before we get major salt build up, I think I did mine twice during last winter, although I now have new seals so hopefully it will be less. MT

18-11-05, 07:08 PM	#7
Robw#70 Guest Posts: n/a	If the dust seal is atarting to distort and/or pistons are showing white rust deposits then they will need rebuilding. Its not the seals that are the problem its the corrosion behind them pushing them out. Cleaning the grooves out behind the seal is the most important part and make sure you get all of it and keep copper-slip away from pistons. Seen too many calipers that people have done themselves (or even some shops ) that still bind or the dust seals pop out 6 months later, or the pistons have been pumped out and smothered in copperslip and pushed back in---- which in time the 'slip' bit disappears leaving a gungy copper mess. I have a couple of sets of calipers that I was looking at doing on an exchange, its £80 for parts (new seals, oe pistons, new slider boots and stainless bleed nipples) so prob £100 all in

18-11-05, 11:50 PM	#8
sprocket Guest Posts: n/a	Just finished overhauling my calipers ... rear one was a right ***** pistons just didn't want to come out .. (I didn't pump them out on the bike though ) So used a tube of air to pop the **ers out ... worked a treat hopefully they should feel wicked awesome with the new lines im putting on