Shock settings

Got me a ZX6 shock, the new shape with the horizontal reservoir, and just wondering whether anyone could give me a clue of best settings?

I've based my settings on the recenty issue of PB that had all their settings, one of which being the ZX6 itself, however I reckon these will be a little different with popping the shock into my SV.

Cheers
Jase

I've just unwrapped one myself today Jase. I'll probably not get to fit it 'til Sunday but we can swap settings after that if you like. I'm about 75kg in bike gear.

Big tip of the hat to Captain Nemo for supplying mine. Looks like a brand spanking new one mate. Muchos gracias!!!

[johnnyrod]

I'd be interested to see, a mate of mine has got one recently and made a fist of it, says it feels better than stock, but till I get my hands on it I have no idea (and neither will he) what the settings are.

[quote="haggis"]I'm about 75kg in bike gear. [quote]


I'm a couple of kg's over that without my gear , but will be interesting to see what settings you reckon are best.

You could try my rough and ready method to get you started:

First set the static sag to 30 - 35mm. This is measured directly from the rear axle straight up, and is the difference between the bike with the suspension fully extended (lift the back until the wheel is almost off the ground), and with you sitting on the seat in the riding position with all of your gear on. Adjust the pre-load on the spring until this right. A friend to hold the front of the bike straight up and another to read the tape measure (one end taped to the axle bolt) are needed.

Now for the rebound. First wind out (anticlockwise) the compression screw a good 10-15 clicks so that it is not doing much. Now while one friend holds the front steady, give the seat a good ol' push down and watch how it comes back up. You want it to come up more slowly than you push it down. Some folk state that it should take about 1 second to come back up, but for me this is too much rebound damping for the road. I adjust it until it comes visibly slower than you can push it down, but more likely in the half to three quarters of a second range.

Now for the compression. This requires road tests. Go for a ride and see how the bumps feel. Keep on increasing the compression (turning clockwise three clicks at a time) until the bumps feel too hard, and then back it off three clicks.

After that, go for a lot more riding with the screwdriver close at hand. If you feel you are being bounced off of the road by the larger bumps then unwind the compression a click or two. If that doesn't help than undo that change, and add a click or two of rebound damping and see if that helps more. Additional rebound damping makes the bike feel more planted, but if you go too far there is much more chance of sliding.

Now I may be wrong about the sag, but I thought static sag was when you compared unloaded suspension (back wheel off the floor) to when the back wheel is on the floor, hence the weight of the bike.

I understood that you then set rider sag being the difference between when you're sat on the bike and not.

There is a lot of bad terminology floating around for this. However there is only one important one, and that is how far the suspension drops from full extension with the rider on the bike. I read once in an article about setting up a Ducati that mentioned setting the sag without the rider, but this is only really to help get things ready for the 'average' rider. I never figured out how to make the bike work very well without a rider It is called static sag by the Racetech, Maxtons and others who modify/improve bike suspension, so I think it is the right term.

[johnnyrod]

Got some links for you, setting up damping is not a quick job.

http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/mo...ion_set-up.htm

This is my Ohlins manual, check out page 9:

http://www.ohlins.com/pdf/07241-02A.pdf

They key really is to set the sag and leave it alone, set up rebound, then set up comp damping. Do things one adjustment at a time, write notes for yourself. If you make a change e.g. bit more rebound, and can't feel it, do it again i.e. add a bit more, so you can feel what the difference was - you can always go back to your earlier settings with the twiddle of a screwdriver.

Finally, if you go on a track day they often have suspension techs who can help you out with setup. Worth getting right, feels good when you do.

That gostar-racing article misses out on the single most important item - spring strength. If you don't have the correct springs for your weight, then the rest is a waste of time as you will end up with too much compression damping and preload in order to attempt (unsucessfully) to stop your spring bottoming out. The article uses the R1 as an example - and it has springs that are correct for someone weighing 55kg. I bet that there are not that many R1 riders that are so light.

Getting someone to set it up for you is a good idea, however the racetrack isn't the road, and everyone has their own preferences for weight transfer/wheelspin etc...

Originally Posted by Jase22

Now I may be wrong about the sag, but I thought static sag was when you compared unloaded suspension (back wheel off the floor) to when the back wheel is on the floor, hence the weight of the bike.

I understood that you then set rider sag being the difference between when you're sat on the bike and not.

you're right.

Static sag is the amount the bike compresses under it's ownb weight and is adjusted using the preload and the rider sag is the amount it compressess when ther rider sits on the bike and this is adjusted by using different rate springs.

Anyone who says you can adjust rider sag by upiing or lowering the preload is talking out there ****. A starndardly wound spring will compress att eh same rate all the way though it's compression so by compressing it a bit more to start with, to aparently adjust rider sag does nothing as the spring has the same rate as when you started.

I dont profess to know anything about suspension setup(i have the invoices to prove that) but i do know what the terms mean and whats is and isnt bull****.