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#1 |
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I would love my SV650 K4 to roar like a beast!!
I have only had it a month and the tinny noise of the standard can is starting to make me sad ![]() I have noticed that most cans come with a short like pipe but my original is welded where i wish it wasn't. Do i cut the original or get a really long, complicated, curly link pipe to both ports? Has anyone done either of those things or am i overlooking an easier option? Advice on nice sounding/looking cans would also be good! Thanks, Tim |
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#2 | |
Trinity
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Doing exactly like you to the same.
I believe you cut it 50mm behind Quote:
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#3 |
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As said before, 2 inches above the weld. You don't have to be exact, but cut the weld to line up with the link pipe rather than the exhaust (i.e not at a wierd angle) and just have a play around with the link pipe until you get it to fit.
Mate did mine for me, ten minute job with an angle grinder. Watch out for your swingarm though! ![]() |
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#4 |
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Measure twice, Cut once.
If you are using a Haxsaw, make sure it has a good blade. Also watch you dont cut your heel plates ![]() You can use an angle grinder. If so. Make sure you protect your swingarm with something before you start. Just take your time and don't rush, make sure you have all the tools you think you might need to hand before you start. The actual distance from the weld you will need to cut will depend on which make of can you purchase. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations on where to cut.
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#5 |
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I personally did not find the standard sound of my K3 tinny or too bad a noise in general. I just hated the size of that standard can! Putting a CCC on it was the best move ever.
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#6 |
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Make sure you have some kind of exhaust filler for the link pipe gaps.
I used Holts Fire Gum, designed specificaly for exhausts and comes in a tube. DONT BOTHER!!! What a load of junk that turned out to be. Really sticky when applied to the metal and dries pretty quick too. Within a month it had turned into a crumbly chalky thing that didnt do the job at all. I used clear bathroom sealant and its done the job excellently. Cost about £5 from B&Q and works at those tempratues too so now worries there.
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#7 |
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Mine doesn't blow at all, perfect fit. Take your time and you can achieve the same result.
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#8 |
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I am the LEAST mechanically minded person I know and the thought of cutting my exhaust filled me with dread!
However, a damn good hack saw, 1/2 hour cutting and fiddling resulted in a Blue Flame coloured titanium EVO exhaust that I think looks and sounds the nuts! It is road legal with a removable baffle which occasionally falls out. It was really easy to do and well worth it. As a few have said, cut about 5cm from the rear of the weld and attach new pipe. It is as simple as it sounds. I could not believe the difference in weight between the standard and aftermarket exhaust. [img] ![]() I don't mean to sound patronising - just hope this helps! Si |
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#9 |
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god knows how long it would take with a hacksaw..... forget it!
angle grinder. I had to undo the 2... maybe 4 allen key bolts holding the right footpeg & brake pedal on, just so i could get my 80 year old grandad to hold the assembly out the way. I could get the grinder on the pipe easier then. still had to do a bit of bending and twisting of the pipe, cos the disc was too small to cut all the way through, this left a massive burr, but.... grind the ****e off ![]() I'd recommend an angle grinder for 1 reason, you can cut long, and 'sand' the pipe down if its too long, takes a matter of seconds. if you never used one before though, and decide to for your exhaust, practice on some old metal first, they can be quite scary! |
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#10 |
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Thanks for all the tips!! I'v got a mate with an angle grinder who can sort me out. Just got to decide which can to buy now....
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