winter storage for dummies

hi folks - after what seems like ages getting all the info together, i thought id post an idiots guide to winter storage.

have just sucessfully completed it myself, and im useless with spanners, so thought id post this to help fellow un-mechanical folks. please feel free to add or comment! many thanks to the owners manual, google and fellow SVer Ebee for the info.

STEP ONE - wash the bike. try get in all the nooks and crannies - dont forget the underside of the engine, on the inside of swingarm and the suspension bits and bobs underneath the rear shock - its usually caked with rubbish.

STEP TWO - fill tank to the brim with petrol. add some petrol stabiliser - i found this stuff difficult to find so i ordered STA-BIL of ebay. cost 6 squid incl shipping. the full tank and stabiliser keep the moisture/tank rust at bay as well as keep the petrol from turning to jelly. run the engine for a few mins to get the stabilser in the injectors/carbs. whilst your at the garage - check the tyre pressures.

STEP THREE - you need access to the spark plug holes for this. to get to the front one, you need to undo the top bolt on the rad (just above the forks- it also holds a plastic flap) and the lower bolt on the right side of the rad. now the rad can move forward - get in there with the spark plug wrench supplied with the toolkit. remove the plug and put one tablespoon of engine oil down the spark plug hole. replace the spark plug and cap. to get to the rear plug you need to lift the tank - quite easy really. remove the front seat and the allen bolts at the front of the tank (near the headstock) the tank lifts forward. remove the plug and put oil down that hole too. put it all back together and crank the engine a few times. i did this by putting it in 6th gear and rolling the bike forward. the spark plugs are a bit fiddly to get out, but not too bad.

STEP FOUR- Drain the engine of oil and add new oil right to the top of the filler cap. the bugger is quite big - it took almost 11 litres of oil!! no need to change the filter at this point. Also adjust and lube the chain.

STEP FIVE - Remove the battery - on a pointy its under the seat - remember to disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal first. store the battery somewhere safe. ive got mine hooked up to an optimate charger - 35 squid from J&S - seems to work very well.

STEP SIX - By now the bike should be completely dry - wax the bodywork - i used colour magic - comes up a treat. it also protects the paintwork. I sprayed the rubber and vinyl with silicone spray for protection. Finally i sprayed all exposed alloy and metal with ACF50. i sprayed the engine casing, all the bits behind the frame, the frame itself - basically - all the parts that are not bodywork!! (ive heard that suzukis dissolve you see) - remember to keep it off the brakes!!!! this stuff is very good at keeping the worts of the decay at bay. also on the advice of ebee i sprayed some down the fuel overspill pipe - its under the fuel cap - it runs all the way down underneath the bike and is known to rust and basically ruin the tank. spray some down and you should see it drip out the bottom.

STEP SEVEN - store the bike!

provided you have all the bits and a few tools this should take you no more than 3 to 4 hours depending on how well you clean the bike

well, this is probably not a complete guide, but i think it covers most aspects. hope it helps anyone who needs to store their SV. Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

Originally Posted by drumroll

hi folks - after what seems like ages getting all the info together, i thought id post an idiots guide to winter storage.

have just sucessfully completed it myself, and im useless with spanners, so thought id post this to help fellow un-mechanical folks. please feel free to add or comment! many thanks to the owners manual, google and fellow SVer Ebee for the info.

STEP ONE - wash the bike. try get in all the nooks and crannies - dont forget the underside of the engine, on the inside of swingarm and the suspension bits and bobs underneath the rear shock - its usually caked with rubbish.

STEP TWO - fill tank to the brim with petrol. add some petrol stabiliser - i found this stuff difficult to find so i ordered STA-BIL of ebay. cost 6 squid incl shipping. the full tank and stabiliser keep the moisture/tank rust at bay as well as keep the petrol from turning to jelly. run the engine for a few mins to get the stabilser in the injectors/carbs. whilst your at the garage - check the tyre pressures.

STEP THREE - you need access to the spark plug holes for this. to get to the front one, you need to undo the top bolt on the rad (just above the forks- it also holds a plastic flap) and the lower bolt on the right side of the rad. now the rad can move forward - get in there with the spark plug wrench supplied with the toolkit. remove the plug and put one tablespoon of engine oil down the spark plug hole. replace the spark plug and cap. to get to the rear plug you need to lift the tank - quite easy really. remove the front seat and the allen bolts at the front of the tank (near the headstock) the tank lifts forward. remove the plug and put oil down that hole too. put it all back together and crank the engine a few times. i did this by putting it in 6th gear and rolling the bike forward. the spark plugs are a bit fiddly to get out, but not too bad.

STEP FOUR- Drain the engine of oil and add new oil right to the top of the filler cap. the bugger is quite big - it took almost 11 litres of oil!! no need to change the filter at this point. Also adjust and lube the chain. is this a joke?

STEP FIVE - Remove the battery - on a pointy its under the seat - remember to disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal first. store the battery somewhere safe. ive got mine hooked up to an optimate charger - 35 squid from J&S - seems to work very well.

STEP SIX - By now the bike should be completely dry - wax the bodywork - i used colour magic - comes up a treat. it also protects the paintwork. I sprayed the rubber and vinyl with silicone spray for protection. Finally i sprayed all exposed alloy and metal with ACF50. i sprayed the engine casing, all the bits behind the frame, the frame itself - basically - all the parts that are not bodywork!! (ive heard that suzukis dissolve you see) - remember to keep it off the brakes!!!! this stuff is very good at keeping the worts of the decay at bay. also on the advice of ebee i sprayed some down the fuel overspill pipe - its under the fuel cap - it runs all the way down underneath the bike and is known to rust and basically ruin the tank. spray some down and you should see it drip out the bottom.

STEP SEVEN - store the bike!

provided you have all the bits and a few tools this should take you no more than 3 to 4 hours depending on how well you clean the bike

well, this is probably not a complete guide, but i think it covers most aspects. hope it helps anyone who needs to store their SV. Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

i take it you mean the bit about the oil - nope its correct - if you fill the engine oil to the top of the filler cap it takes almost 11 litres!

STEP FOUR- Drain the engine of oil and add new oil right to the top of the filler cap. the bugger is quite big - it took almost 11 litres of oil!! no need to change the filter at this point. Also adjust and lube the chain.

Originally Posted by drumroll

i take it you mean the bit about the oil - nope its correct - if you fill the engine oil to the top of the filler cap it takes almost 11 litres!

but why would you fill it to the top??

complete waste of money

think its to keep everything lubed. its what Mr Suzuki suggests as per owners manual!

did they suggest buying suzuki oil per-chance?!
hehe, good work though!

It is all advisory to keep thing lubed up and will work a treat.

Personally i'd skip filling it to the top and do a fresh oil and filter change and run the engine for a few minutes pref riding to get a full spread. That should cover everything enough for the winter.

Alternatively, you could get out and ride it every weekday/weekend you can.

Support the bike on two paddock stands if you can, keep the weight offf the tyres, failing that overinflate the tyres to prevent flat spots.

Originally Posted by drumroll

hi folks - ... Blah Blah and more Blah... Obviously please feel free to add or comment.

No thanks...way too much hassle...I think I'll clean up my textiles and just keep riding :P