Activ8, product that will save your engine.

Did anyone attend this show (or is going to?)

Luckily as my mate owns a training school I got a free ticket to go along. It was my first trade show so we had quite a bit of work to do as my mate has tasked me with helping set up his retail side of things. So we struck a few pretty good deals so that we can sell kit to students. The way I see it is that when a customer phones him to book a course, 9 times out of 10 they have never ridden a motorcycle/scooter before (legally) so in theory would not have any kit at all. So, I suggested that he should capitalise on this and be the one that offers them a basic package of gear including helmet, gloves, trousers and a jacket for a bargain price sold separately or together. All basic kit but at least it's a start. Anyhoo, back to the show. There were quite a few scantily clad females walking the floor which was quite nice but there was one product that really stood out. It is called Activ8 and it pretty much stops metal to metal wear and tear by a claimed 90%. I didn't believe it until I did saw (and took part in) the demo. Basically you had a rotating metal wheel and a bar that you press down on it which had a torque meter attached. The wheel has a little tray underneath the wheel that immerses the wheel almost toally in the oil. He had many brands of oil all in new bottles so he cracked open some Castrol semi R4 9as it's what I use) and filled the little sump up. Then I had to press the bar down until I could stop the wheel from turning, this happened at about 40 er thingies (nm?). He then dropped a small amount of the Activ8 product into the oil and I again had to stop the wheel from turning. After I got to 200nm the wheel was still spinning freely and I had a sore arm!). He then emptied the oil clean everything and wiped it all dry and asked me to do it again.................again I could not stop the wheel turning! Even if your engine lost ALL it's oil this product would get you home! Simply stunning. So, I am starting some test on my own bike and will let you know how I get on. If it works as it should do I will be offering it to you at avery discounted price. 1ltr of this stuff retails at £79.99 but only 125ml is needed for either 25'000miles or 5 oil changes (whichever comes first). It works on anything where there is metal to metal friction where you don't want it. Will come back with more info soon!

http://www.activ8.uk.com/

Interesting, sounds pretty good, keep us updated and give us a drop next time I see ya

http://simplan.co.uk/onlinestore/index.asp

Put this in an engine with a wet clutch? Hmm, maybe not a good idea.


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Sounds impressive, I take it this wouldn't affect the friction plates in the clutch and cause clutch slip?

EDIT: Jonboy beat me to it.

Originally Posted by jonboy

Put this in an engine with a wet clutch? Hmm, maybe not a good idea.


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Yes, absolotley no issues at all as it does not coat metal. It does not clog filters or cause any harm at all. The proof is in the pudding as they say, I will report all my findings from my own bikes.

[Luckypants]

If this stuff works by 'coating' the metal surfaces with some thing (Teflon?) like Slick 50, I would be wary of using it in bike engines. The coating that these things lay down may only be a few microns thick, but is enough to close up some of the small oil ways in an engine, leading to oil starvation of some components and resulting breakdown.

What is the effect of this super slippy stuff on the clutch? Make that slippy too?

Willing to proved wrong, proof not heresay required.

It contains no solids or PTFE (telfon) so this problem is resolved. I literally stood there and watched customer after customer come up and greet the guy pesonally (he was a tiny one man stall), most of them were racing team mechanics or garage owners who swear by it. He gave a reallyy good explanation why is does not affect clutches in a negative way but I cannot remember. I will email them to get some more info.

Cheers,

Dan

Not a good product. My mate ran this after seeing the demo at a show. One month later the engine ran the mains. Something to do with the additive attacking the copper coating on the shells.

No engine tuner will recommend it..i certainly wouldnt after seeing this and chatting with a few engine tuners.

expensive for little or no gain..and maybe very expensive when it goes wrong as above.

Originally Posted by SV650Racer

Not a good product. My mate ran this after seeing the demo at a show. One month later the engine ran the mains. Something to do with the additive attacking the copper coating on the shells.

No engine tuner will recommend it..i certainly wouldnt after seeing this and chatting with a few engine tuners.

expensive for little or no gain..and maybe very expensive when it goes wrong as above.

Was it a road or race bike? Only reason I ask is I wonder if a racebike had an oil change after every race, it'd get rid of the additive v. quick and without the additive (if the copper coating was removed) it'd lunch itself quickly.

[embee]

Originally Posted by SV650Racer

Not a good product. My mate ran this after seeing the demo at a show. One month later the engine ran the mains. Something to do with the additive attacking the copper coating on the shells.

No engine tuner will recommend it..i certainly wouldnt after seeing this and chatting with a few engine tuners.

expensive for little or no gain..and maybe very expensive when it goes wrong as above.

Don't know anything about this product, but yes you do have to be a little wary with some extreme pressure (EP) additives as found in transmission oils attacking copper based alloys (brass/bronze etc).

Having said that most modern engines don't use copper/lead type bearing shells any more, superceded by aluminium/tin etc.

Does it have a sickly sweet smell like EP oil (lots of sulphur)?

Personally I just use a good branded motor oil, Castrol/Mobil/Shell etc, in all my engines, you won't have any wear issues if it's maintained correctly.
Development engines I've been involved with are perfectly serviceable after 150k miles or 1000hrs high speed test bed durability.

Treat it properly while warming up, don't just leave it idling (start, settle for maybe 20-30sec then ride/drive off gently, don't rev high or blip throttle repeatedly until properly warm), change oil+filter regularly and you'll have no problems.

Justy my opinion