When to change brake pads?

[steveg]

Hi all

noticed my rear pads are down to 2mm , what is the minimum recommended before changing , strangley the original front pads are still fine 3.5 mm left after 27 k miles whereas rears only last approx 13 - 15 k I am on 2nd set off rear pads???

Cheers Steve

[yorkie_chris]

If they're wearing quickly then is the caliper serviced? If it's dragging then it'll wear the pads out quicker.

[steveg]

Yep caliper is serviced , just seem to go through rear pads quickly , but do alot of filtering on daily commute ??

What do you recon the min pad thickness is before needs replacing ??

Cheers Steve

[en4rab]

I replace the pads when they start making a loud grinding/scraping noise as you brake.

[flymo]

:-) I think waiting for scraping sounds is a bit late.

Advice I got from EBC about their pads was pretty good. They mentioned that the closer the you get to the metal part of the pad then the less effective the insulation from heat. When enough friction material remains then less heat is transferred to the metal backing plate. When this plate begins to heat it retains heat for longer and can heat up everything around it, including the discs causing potential warp.

If you are filtering around town all the time though then I dont think you'll have a problem. Change them when they get close.

[steveg]

I think waiting for scraping sounds is a bit late.

Advice I got from EBC about their pads was pretty good. They mentioned that the closer the you get to the metal part of the pad then the less effective the insulation from heat. When enough friction material remains then less heat is transferred to the metal backing plate. When this plate begins to heat it retains heat for longer and can heat up everything around it, including the discs causing potential warp.

If you are filtering around town all the time though then I dont think you'll have a problem. Change them when they get close.Cool will keep a eye on them , as already said when you hear the scraping sound its too late and discs cost alot more than pads

Just read in Haynes I found out for an old bike I used to own and states min thickness is 1mm so should be ok for a while

Cheers Steve

[yorkie_chris]

One thing to remember though; replacing the pads a bit before it's entirely necessary is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to get a new disc too.

[dyzio]

Damn! Same thing here!
Bike is on 28k, I was servicing the front callipers, fitting new pads and hoses. Out of geek curiosity, I've checked the condition of the rear pads. Although I've changed them about 11k (EBC organic) ago, they urgently need replacing again.
What wonders me is:
- the front ones were low, but still safe to ride. Can OEM pads do 28k? (I assume the previous owner hasn't changed them) I'm no Rossi but I ain't captain slow either...
- one pad is worn visibly more than the other (rear pads)

The front pads have been changed to EBC organic as well now, I hope they will last more than 10k. Never owned a bike before so don't know much about brake wear...

[Dangerous Dave]

One thing to remember though; replacing the pads a bit before it's entirely necessary is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to get a new disc too.
+ 1

I eat through rear pads on the 800, best to replace them before it gets to late...

[dyzio]

One thing to remember though; replacing the pads a bit before it's entirely necessary is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to get a new disc too.
I will remember that from last time :smt021


Dave,
roughly, how many miles does "eat through" mean?

[lazymanc]

Without wanting to hijack the thread, is it safe to use EBC HH pads on standard OEM disks, and if so, is it worth doing?

[Geoffrey]

is it safe to use EBC HH pads on standard OEM disks, and if so, is it worth doing?
Yes to both of your questions, it is the set up I am using on my SK4.

[Dangerous Dave]

Without wanting to hijack the thread, is it safe to use EBC HH pads on standard OEM disks, and if so, is it worth doing?

Yes to both of your questions, it is the set up I am using on my SK4.
Brake pads are a personal preference, what you may like others may not. The EBC HH pads can be used on OEM discs with no problems. Don't believe all the rubbish on here about them eating disc's, most of it was down to poor callipers or disc's before the pads were even fitted.

[zunkus]

Strange enough my rear brakes went thin first by the way too and I don't ever use them!

[lazymanc]

Cheers Geoffrey / DD. I think i'll try some HH next time and see how I get on. Would I be right in thinking they're stronger but less progressive?

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah sort of, more initial bite, Total power is fairly pointless to consider with stock forks.

[Dave20046]

My rear pads are looking a little thin but I'm loathed to change them since I once replaced my cbr's (they have really poor claipers) and I could never push my bike again. Completely seized no matter how much you cleaned up and greased the pistons.
Grrr I'll pull my finger out...luckily sv rear calipers are pretty accessible. :)

[Paul the 6th]

One thing to remember though; replacing the pads a bit before it's entirely necessary is far cheaper than leaving it too late and having to get a new disc too.

i was just about to say "pads aint that expensive & are easy enough to replace"... but yc beat me to it. Haven't you got anything better to do yc? Like finding some new tyres for me :razz:

i'd definitely recommend the ebc hh pads, they take a while to bed in but I'd say I personally found them to be about 50-60% better than the stock pads. Need to stiffen up the front a bit now

[Dave20046]

Strange enough my rear brakes went thin first by the way too and I don't ever use them!
Dodgy caliper?

[Dangerous Dave]

Strange enough my rear brakes went thin first by the way too and I don't ever use them!
Dodgy caliper?
The rear calipers are prone to seizing and having crap collect on the pistons. Crap on the pistons stop them from going back in fully which holds the rear pad against the disc.

Take the calliper off and give it a good clean and smear the pistons with red rubber grease while you are at it. You do not always need to fully service them, depends how much they have been neglected but they should be serviced periodically.

[zunkus]

The rear calipers are prone to seizing and having crap collect on the pistons. Crap on the pistons stop them from going back in fully which holds the rear pad against the disc.

Take the calliper off and give it a good clean and smear the pistons with red rubber grease while you are at it. You do not always need to fully service them, depends how much they have been neglected but they should be serviced periodically.

You nailed it right mate. The caliper needed a good clean, the piston (spot rusted here and there) polished with autosol and then cleaned with fresh brake fluid. It seems this happens to the rear brake from users who don't rear brake that much. I'm guilty, front brake user. I'll have to press that right pedal now and again. Thanks for the help guys.

[yorkie_chris]

yup full service tends to be needed after neglect. You can get away with pumping the pistons out and greasing them a lot of the time without actually getting covered in fluid.

[ThEGr33k]

Someone said that the EBC HH brakes have strong initial bite but the max bite wasnt great. I have noticed this... Just wondering what pads give both good initial bite and strong max bite?

Taaaa

[Dangerous Dave]

It is a personal preference Gr33k, just like tyres. I like the EBC HH's as they offer great performance over a wide scope which suits me.

[zunkus]

I'm using Ferrodo organic and am really pleased with the results.

[ThEGr33k]

I think when I changed my lines to Braided I might have got some crap on the disc's or pads as they dont seem to grip too well yet :shock: used brake cleaner to give them a clean.

Do you know how long it might take or if you can clean them off just by using the brakes... They seem to be getting better and they seem to work better once warmed up. Weird tbh. :(