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Slim666
18-04-08, 09:44 AM
Done a search but cant find much info. Changing the bearings in my 1999 650 and had a look at the manual. Says you need a special tool to remove them, so what will i have in my garage that will do the job? Any other tips would be greatly apptriciated. Cheers. :D

sv650k4
18-04-08, 10:55 AM
i would normally use a big screwdriver 2 get the old ones out.;)

lookskyward1
18-04-08, 11:03 AM
Long screwdriver and a hammer.

Be carefull drifting the old bearings out, tapping around the whole circumference of the bearing, don't concentrate on one spot or you can damage the wheel.

northwind
18-04-08, 12:07 PM
I use my nice stainless Bahco punch. Or a big screwdriver, depending on what comes to hand first :D Pay attention to Lookskyward, that's good advice, if you muller the bearing out mainly by one side it'll tilt and you'll end up ovalling the bearing recess.

Slim666
20-04-08, 08:24 AM
Thanks for all the advice, i'll give it a go. Cheers. :)

flymo
20-04-08, 11:34 AM
I find that an extension bar from a typical socket set is good for this. Not as sharp and severe as a screwdriver.

Gently does it, doesnt need massive taps. Prop the wheel just off the floor/bench with some wood and tap away.

Tune in next weekend to get tips on how to put the new ones in :-)

drag
20-04-08, 08:46 PM
I find that an extension bar from a typical socket set is good for this. Not as sharp and severe as a screwdriver.

Gently does it, doesnt need massive taps. Prop the wheel just off the floor/bench with some wood and tap away.

Tune in next weekend to get tips on how to put the new ones in :-)


Can we have that "how to" before monday week plz :) mine new bearings are arriving this week :D

Paul C
20-04-08, 10:11 PM
I use a 3" wood dowel to drive the bearings in, it is soft and will not mar or otherwise harm the new bearing. I have used the same piece for years, just cut it off square when it gets bunged up. It was a handle for an adze when i bought it, cut it into several pieces for different size bearings, it went from 2" to 5" diameter along the length so works even for truck rear ends with one chunk or another.

I also see a lot of people using a socket reversed on an extension for this, pretty much duplicates a bearing driver. Be careful when using a steel implement.

Spanner Man
21-04-08, 06:50 AM
Good morning all.

I have seen plenty of wheels that have been ruined when the uninitiated try to change bearings. My preferred method for removing the old ones is a long drift, despite having 'blind' hole pullers & slide hammers etc.

The centre of most wheels is either tapered, or has a shoulder on one side, therefore the spacer will dislodge on one side only.
If you have a grinder or a belt sander to hand, evenly reduce the diameter, & the of one of the old bearings until it drops straight into the wheel then reduce the thickness of the centre of the bearing slightly, you then have the perfect bearing drift for installing the new ones. Remember to tap on the outside edge only.

When installing new bearings I always heat the wheel gently, & lightly oil the outside of the bearings.
Do not wallop the new bearings in too tightly so that they are hard up against the spacer. You normally find that on most wheels one bearing goes against a shoulder & the other doesn't. Install the one against the shoulder first, drop in the spacer & then carefully drift the other bearing in until it's just touching the spacer, but you still have a little lateral movement of the spacer. Pass the spindle through to align everything & check that the lateral movement of the spacer is still the same. If it has gone a little floppy (MATRON) drift the bearing in a minute fraction more.
If using an old bearing as a drift you can have the spindle in situ as you're doing it, this really helps to keep everything in line.

Cheers.

drag
28-04-08, 10:38 PM
Quick Q , managed to get my left hand side bearing out, and of course the spacer dropped out easily enough, however the right hand side is not moving an inch for me, am i actually missing something here should it not be the same situation, punch down and drive out, and yes i've made sure i'm not punching the small internal lip..

yorkie_chris
28-04-08, 10:45 PM
Any circlip on the SV?

drag
28-04-08, 10:51 PM
Any circlip on the SV?

I'm not exactally sure what that is chris

edit, just realised,.... no i cant see one it's almost like the bearing is behind a small lip also

yorkie_chris
28-04-08, 10:52 PM
A spring clip which fits into a recess in the bearing cavity. I'm not sure whether the SV uses one though. Will check haynes...

drag
28-04-08, 10:55 PM
A spring clip which fits into a recess in the bearing cavity. I'm not sure whether the SV uses one though. Will check haynes...


Have it open here in front of me, and i've just looked again, cant see one and haynes says, drive it out, just like you did with the other

flymo
28-04-08, 10:56 PM
On the pointy SV no there is no circlip, not sure on the curvy.

I assume that the wheel is raised up with the bearing on the lower side? You then drift the bearing downwards usign a drift through the center of the wheel yes?

It'll budge, maybe you are being too gentle with it.

drag
28-04-08, 10:59 PM
On the pointy SV no there is no circlip, not sure on the curvy.

I assume that the wheel is raised up with the bearing on the lower side? You then drift the bearing downwards usign a drift through the center of the wheel yes?

It'll budge, maybe you are being too gentle with it.

Exactally, well im using a flat head screw driver for the moment, working my way around it, side ways, maybe i'm not applying enough pressure on it, but i'd be surprised

yorkie_chris
28-04-08, 10:59 PM
No mention of a circlip, can't remember seeing one either..

Try some gentle heat, and remember lots of impacts checking carefully that it's coming out square is better than a few massive whacks.

drag
28-04-08, 11:00 PM
Heat ehh ... i'll see what i can do *goes off to build fire*

I'll have to go back to it in the am, dont thing the neighbors would appreciate me making a racket at this time of night

northwind
28-04-08, 11:18 PM
Yeah, it should be easier really. I've had bearings that were nightmares to shift, and others that more or less fell out.

drag
29-04-08, 09:01 AM
Brute force FTW !!! :D

just on a side note, is Castrol CL good to use on the bearings, and axel ?

flymo
29-04-08, 09:24 AM
Exactally, well im using a flat head screw driver for the moment, working my way around it, side ways, maybe i'm not applying enough pressure on it, but i'd be surprised

Dont worry about tapping against the center of the old bearing as it going in the bin anyway. Try using a length of wood that fits down the wheel hub, or a socket on an extension bar, that'll shift it. The hammer can help too, a dead blow or lump hammer with some weight behind it will be better that a typical claw hammer.

drag
29-04-08, 08:16 PM
All went well in the end, all four bearings have been replaced, easy job i guess.. new springs were installed also, and sum heavier oil

yorkie_chris
29-04-08, 10:11 PM
Nice one. Test ridden yet?

drag
30-04-08, 08:29 AM
no not yet, have to install the rear zx10 r shock today, then strip all the calipers and redo there seals, then put it all back together. :(